Before entering upon the subject of grafting and budding, there is one thing which is equally applicable to both processes, and that is, that the _stock_ ought to stand the whole summer upon the spot where it is grafted, before that operation is performed upon it. If stocks be planted out in the fall, the sap does not rise vigorously enough in the spring to afford a fair chance to the growing of the graft; another remark of equal importance is, that fruit-trees stand only _one summer_ on the spot whence they are to be removed to their final destination; because, if they stand longer than this, they will have large and long roots, great amputation must take place, and the trees suffer exceedingly. _The Time of Grafting_ is generally from the beginning of February to the end of March,[1] beginning with the earliest sorts of trees, as plums, cherries, and pears; and ending with the latest, as apples. But seasons are different, and in a backward season, the season for grafting will be backward; and in such case, the fulness and bursting appearance of the buds of the stocks, and the mildness of the weather must be our guides. However, it is certain that the mild weather, with occasional showers, is the best time for grafting. [1] In this climate, April and May are the best months.--ED. AM. AG. _The Mode of Preparing the Scion_ comes next. Take from the tree from which you mean to propagate, as many branches of last year's wood as will cut into the quantity of scions that you want; but in choosing what branches to take, let the vigor of the tree guide you, in some measure. If it be a healthy, flourishing, and young tree, take your branches from the outside shoots, for the upright ones at the top, or those near the middle, are more likely to produce wood than fruit. Yet do not take branches from the very lowest part of the tree, if you can avoid it, as these are sure to be more puling in their nature. In case the tree be old or weakly, then choose the most vigorous of its last year's shoots, no matter where they grow. Keep these branches uncut until you arrive at the season for grafting, keeping them, in the meanwhile, buried in dry mould; and when that season arrives, take them up and cut them into the proper lengths for grafting. The middle part of each branch will generally be found to be the best; but your branches may be scarce and few in number, and then make use of every part. Each scion should have from three to six eyes on it, but six will, in all cases, be quite enough, as there is no use in an extraordinary length of scion; but, on the contrary, it may be productive of much mischief, by overloading the head with young shoots and leaves as summer advances, and thereby making it more subject to accident from high winds or heavy rains.