_Monday, Dec. 5._——We have seen something of what is left of the great city of Thebes, its magnificent temples, its stupendous halls, its wonderful colossi, its interesting tombs——Karnak and Luxor, on one side, Gourna on the other. It is hard to realize what pomp and splendor were once displayed among these ruins, still so grand in their desolation. The strong current of the river got the best of us to-day. The steamer in rounding a point could not be made to obey her helm, and before we knew what was going to happen, with full steam on we ran bunt up against and on to the steep bank. The men pushed and grunted, and finally we got clear and righted up again. We have witnessed a nearly total eclipse of the moon this evening, soon after it rose, which for the manner in which it came on and went off was very remarkable. We could hear the natives in their villages trying to frighten away the dragon which was supposed to be swallowing the moon. We tied up at Esneh for the night. Here we went ashore with torches and lights to visit a portion of a temple, which is in an excellent state of preservation. I first went to see the Mudir to get him to telegraph for us to Korosko for camels. He had retired for the night, but as our business could not be transacted at any other time, I sent in our orders from Cairo, and he soon appeared. Coffee was served, our papers made out, viz.: An order to the governors of places where we might call within his _mudirieh_ to show us proper attention, and a telegram signed by the Mudir to provide camels for us at Korosko. Then joining the rest of the party we visited the temple. The top of it is only a little above the successive deposits of ages, and one has to descend a long flight of steps to reach its floor. It is completely covered with sculptured work, which is finely preserved. This, however, is only the portico of the real temple, the entrance to which is walled up. [Illustration: ELEPHANT HUNTING]