_Tuesday, Dec. 6._——Our steamer made a long stop at Edfou to-day, as is customary, to let passengers see its splendid temple. This is the most complete, and the best preserved in Egypt, and gives one the best idea of ancient Egyptian architecture. Its massive pylons had long been in sight as we steamed up the river. As soon as the steamer stopped we took donkeys and started toward them through the winding mud-walled streets of the little town. What a temple! A book would fail to do it justice! Every inch of it is covered with the most beautiful carving. I have not space nor time to tell of how we climbed the pylons and wandered through the dark mysterious chambers, and stood in admiration before those beautiful and ever varied pillars, and explored dark winding passages built in the walls themselves. One has an overwhelming sense of sublimity and awe as he stands under the shadow and in the profound hush of these sacred monuments of a departed glory. We tied up for the night at Gebel Silsileh, a narrow, rocky passage, through which the river seems to have burst its way. Here we went on shore and with the help of torches examined the tombs and chapels and noted quarries. The perfect silence here was almost painful. There was not even the usual gentle murmur of “backsheesh.” Returning to our steamer we took a moonlight row up the river, and over to the opposite shore. Ruins and moonlight, and a boat ride on the Nile! Could anything be more romantic? Here is a picture hung upon the walls of memory never to be forgotten. _Wednesday, Dec. 7._——We have run aground twice to-day. We passed the ruins of Comombo early this morning, and now we are at Assouan, with another stage of our journey accomplished. We have visited the bazaars, where all sorts of curiosities from Nubia and the Soudan are sold, and had crowds of wild-looking, long-haired, grease-smeared and more than half naked desert Arabs thronging around us, and have been besieged with strange looking people with stranger looking things to sell, of which we bought none. In fact, our novel experiences in and about the town would, if all told, be a tale too lengthy for these brief pages. We also visited the island of Elephantine, with its ruins of pottery, human skeletons, and interesting Nile meter. Ibrahim was dispatched the first thing on our arrival, to secure a dahabeyeh for us. He has returned, and reports that he has found one, such as it is, which will take us and our baggage from here to Korosko for £5. We have agreed to take two men, Mousa and Ibrahim Cohen, with us to Khartoum to lighten our expenses. Then we have Mongades, the Bible Society’s man with us, so that we shall really have to pay for the dahabeyeh only about £3. We have been invited to see a “fantasia,” but our taste not being cultivated in that direction we declined.