At Jacksonville the St. Johns bends to the south on its long course
through the chain of lakes and swamps that leads to the mysterious
Okeechobee land, a _terra_, or rather _aqua incognita_, given over to
alligators and unending lies. The last phrase was added by Miss Sharp,
who laboriously wrote down the Okeechobee stories current on the St.
Johns, about buried cities, ruins of temples on islands, rusty convent
bells, and the like, only to have them all demolished by the stern
researches of the Professor. The Professor was not romantic.
“A buried city on the brim
Of Okeechobee was to him
A lie, and nothing more!”
We found Jacksonville a thriving, uninteresting brick-and-mortar town,
with two large hotels, from whence issued other tourists and invalids,
with whom we sailed up the river as far as Enterprise, and then on a
smaller steamer up the wild, beautiful Ocklawaha, coming back down the
St. Johns again as far as Tocoi, where, with the clear consciences of
tourists who have seen every thing on the river, we took the mule train
across the fifteen miles to the sea, arriving toward sunset at the shed
and bonfire which form the railroad dépôt of St. Augustine. This shed
has never been seen open. What it contains no one knows; but it has a
platform where passengers are allowed to stand before their turn comes
to climb into the omnibus. The bonfire is lighted by the waiting darkies
as a protection against the evening damps. But they builded better than
they knew, those innocent contrabands; their blazing fire only mildly
typifies the hilarious joy of the Ancient City over the coming of its
annual victim, the gold-bearing Northern tourist.
“But where is the town?” demanded Aunt Diana.
“‘Cross de ribber, mistis. De omnibuster waitin’,” replied a colored
official, armed with a bugle. John Hoffman, having given directions as
to his trunks, started off on foot through the thicket, with an evening
cigar for company. Aunt Diana, however, never allowed desertion from her
camp, whether of regulars or volunteers. She had her eye upon Mokes; she
knew he was safe; so she called after the retreating figure, “Mr.
Hoffman! Mr. Hoffman! We shall not know where to go without you.”
“St. Augustine Hotel,” replied Hoffman, over his shoulder.
“But you?”
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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