The Art of Drinking: A Historical Sketch — John Shaqi
The Art of Drinking: A Historical SketchGervinus, Georg Gottfried
Philosophy
The Art of Drinking: A Historical Sketch
Gervinus, Georg Gottfried
Beer; Drinking customs; Wine and wine making
At all events, it seems to be proved by the most trustworthy witnesses
that rice-wine is older in China than the wine of grapes; for while
the highest age that can be assigned to wine is only given by the
doubtful testimony of the supposed author of the “Tshu-ly,” Tshu-Kang,
who mounted the throne 1122 B. C., the invention of rice-wine is set
down to the Dynasty Hia, 2209 (1716 B. C.). This also accords with
experience elsewhere, for beer of various kinds (and the grain-wines
of the Chinese are nothing else, except that they frequently mix them
with all sorts of fruit, including grapes) everywhere became the
national drink in advance of wine, as brandy and other liquors follow
wine. Grape-brandy has, it appears, been known in China only since the
seventh century of our era, but is now a favorite beverage with the
common Chinamen, and is drunk by them warm and almost as strong as
alcohol in large quantities, in spite of its very unpleasant taste.
For only a comparatively short time the grape-culture seems to have
flourished in China. The Chinese always have had their grain-wines and
their brandy more at heart. The inventor of the rice-wine was, it is
true, banished by the Emperor Yu-te, because he well foresaw the sad
consequences of its use, and yet the beverage has kept its place to
the present day as an ornament of the Chinese table. It is like this
people, who live on nothing but that water-plant, rice, and tea, to
cling with the same obstinacy as they do to all old orders and customs,
to this beverage, which is something between brandy and water, and
taken neither hot nor cold. These wines are said to have a very bad
effect; they fatten at first, but then bring on consumption, entire
loss of appetite, and at last complete emaciation and death. It was
natural, therefore, that the paternal Emperors, who looked after their
subjects as after real children, and in whose laws dietetics always
played a great part, should forbid these injurious beverages, and
several of the Emperors set the good example. The third Emperor of the
Dynasty Mant-shu, Yong-Tsheng, devoted one of his ten commandments to
this subject, and the great Kanghi says in his writings that, despite
his pleasure in them, he never became accustomed to wine and spirits.
At feasts and banquets he only touched it with his lips, and so might
well boast of not drinking any at all. Moreover, this wine consumes a
great deal of grain, which in a densely peopled country, whose very
existence depends upon its supplies of grain, is a matter of some
importance, so that perhaps from this higher standpoint also there
was good reason for the prohibition. But the most important reason
lies deeper still, and was still more carefully considered; and as
this chiefly concerns the wine from grapes, we must first cast another
glance at grape-culture.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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