The Art of Drinking: A Historical SketchGervinus, Georg Gottfried
Philosophy
The Art of Drinking: A Historical Sketch
Gervinus, Georg Gottfried
Beer; Drinking customs; Wine and wine making
We have seen above that grapes existed of old in China. The
just-mentioned learned, philosophical and humane Kanghi himself shows,
in his remarks on natural history in China, that grapes came to China
from the West, and that before his time but few kinds had existed in
China, and boasts that he had sent for three new varieties to Ha-mi,
as he would rather introduce a new fruit into his country than build
a hundred porcelain towers. He observes, also, that these grapes
degenerate in the south, but do well in the north in dry and stony
soil. The experiences of the missionaries in Pekin, however, were
unfavorable; the soil was against them, as well as the remarkably rough
climate, and possibly they went to work awkwardly in other respects
also. For it is certain that these very southern provinces once had
many grape-vines, and the wine made in Shan-si, Shen-si, Petshe-ly,
Shantong, Honan and Hu-Kuang, put into well-closed vessels and buried
in the ground, could be preserved for years. This goes to prove an
observation we shall often find repeated, that after a time the most
favorable soil no longer suffices for the grape, which demands a
certain youthful power in the soil in which it is to flourish most
luxuriantly. In the older and middle ages of China we therefore find
the grape-wine mentioned in all their songs, and that of the river
Kiang is specially praised. It is known that at different periods vines
were introduced from Samarcand, Persia, Thibet, Kashgar, Turfu and
Ha-mi, and the annals themselves plainly mention wine under the reign
of Emperor Wu-ty, Dynasty Han, 140 B. C. From there we can follow up
its use almost from reign to reign, and after the already-mentioned
Kanghi, the last dynasty shows still more rulers who introduced new
grapes from distant countries, so that the southern provinces begin
to restore their old grape-culture again. But the grapes in Ha-mi and
Shan-si seem mostly to be used for raisins, and what we occasionally
hear of their condition in Hoai-lai-hien--that their berries are of
gigantic size, like plums, with a thick skin, and that their size
is not so much due to the climate as to the fact that the vines are
grafted on mulberry-trees, and that they ripen as early as April, May
and June--all this seems highly characteristic of a degenerate culture,
and gives us the poorest possible opinion of the wine that might
be made there. Highly, therefore, as the Jesuits attempt to praise
grape-culture in China, we can yet have but little belief in it; but in
the Middle Ages it must have been all the more brilliant. The reports
concerning it are, however, wrapped in a certain obscurity, from
which no fact stands out clearly. The grape, it is said, flourished
only too well in China--it caused various revolutions. As often as the
Government had ordered the destruction of such trees as obstructed
the grain-fields, the useless grape-vine was also included, and, if
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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