The Art of Drinking: A Historical SketchGervinus, Georg Gottfried
Philosophy
The Art of Drinking: A Historical Sketch
Gervinus, Georg Gottfried
Beer; Drinking customs; Wine and wine making
memory served the reporters, that plant was several times specially
mentioned. It is certain that the destruction of the vine in most of
the provinces, under various reigns, was carried so far that even the
recollection of it was lost, and this induced the belief that the
grape had been brought to China but recently from the Occident. It is
plain that there was always a pretense put forward that the grape-wine
detracted from the culture of the grain, although, with some care,
the same area might probably have yielded a nobler beverage than was
made of the rice and barley, grown where the grape had been rooted
out. But the intellectual effect of it was evidently feared. In so
regular a clock-work as the Chinese State, what might be more dangerous
than irregular movements so very easily produced by wine in the heads
of people? Even the making of the grape-wine was often prohibited.
When that did not avail, its use was limited to feasts, banquets and
sacrifices, and to guests and infirm old age. Not enough with this, at
such feasts a special Mandarin was set over even the princes of the
blood to keep watch over and not permit them to drink more than three
glasses. And still more, certain ceremonies were prescribed, long
healths and salutations, circumstantial rites, at which a free-thinker,
as the Jesuits say, may laugh, but in which a philosopher must
admire the wisdom of the lawgiver, and the subtlety with which he
banished intemperance, and that injudicious freedom of speech which
is its inseparable companion, from among the people! We have seen the
effects of grain-wine in China. The wise Emperor Kanghi complains that
it makes one stupid and dull and confuses the brain. And how much
more terrible still must have been the effect of the grape-wine! This
is probably meant in a certain book of the Dynasty Tshu, where it is
said in warning explanation of the well-founded apprehensions of the
Chinese Government, that if a spirit of rebellion and insurrection was
then rife among the people of China, if they had lost much of their
old virtues and principles, the cause of it must be sought solely in
the effects of wine. Away, therefore, with that cursed boldness which
betrays a tongue set free by wine; that noisy action and damnable
confidence in one’s own strength; that rising of the spirit, which must
have appeared to the learned Emperor as synonymous with confusion;
the impudent overstepping of the good old laws of etiquette; the wild
breaking away from the good old ruts! How should not all this, which
was inseparably connected with wine, seem to the philosophical head
of the State in his immovable peace and calmness, and to the council
of his ministerial pedants, extremely dangerous to the State, and
worthy of being annihilated to the last trace? Need we be surprised,
therefore, at the stories of abstinence told of the Emperors? It was
their duty to give a good example to the people. Had not their prophet,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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