This tendency to be needlessly lavish in expenditure is most
conspicuous when we are offering hospitality in our own homes. Among
the viands which we have added to the bills of fare of humanity, roast
turkey and cranberry-sauce, Indian meal, and probably baked beans, are
entitled to conspicuous and honorable mention, but is it not true,
notwithstanding champagne is a foreign wine, that the most prodigious
discovery in the line of food or drink yet made by the well-to-do
people of this country, is the discovery of champagne? Does it not flow
in one golden effervescing stream, varied only by the pops caused by
the drawing of fresh corks, from the Statue of Liberty Enlightening
the World to the Golden Gate? And the circumstance that every pop
costs the entertainer between three and four dollars, seems in no
wise to interrupt the cheery explosions. There are some people who do
not drink champagne or any other wine, from principle, and there are
some with whom it does not agree, but the average individual finds
that the interest of festive occasions is heightened by its presence
in reasonable abundance, and is apt to deplore its total absence with
internal groans. But surely ninety-nine men in our large cities out
of one hundred, who are accustomed to entertain and be entertained,
must be weary of the sight of this expensive tempter at the feast,
which it is so difficult to refuse when set before one, and which is
so often quaffed against better judgment or inclination. The champagne
breakfast, the champagne luncheon, the champagne dinner, and the
champagne supper, with a champagne cocktail tossed in as a stop-gap,
hound the social favorite from January to December, until he is fain
to dream of the Old Oaken Bucket, and sooner or later to drink Lithia
water only.
With perpetual and unremitting champagne as the key-note of social
gatherings, no wonder that the table ornaments and the comestibles
become more splendid. A little dinner of eight or ten is no longer a
simple matter of a cordial invitation and an extra course. The hostess
who bids her contemporaries to dine with her most informally ten days
hence, uses a figure of speech which is innocuous from the fact that it
is known to be a deliberate falsehood. She begins generally by engaging
a cook from outside to prepare the dinner, which must surely wound the
sensibilities of any self-respecting couple the first time, however
hardened to the situation they may become later.
At this stage of my reflections I am interrupted by my wife,
Barbara--for I was thinking aloud--with a few words of expostulation.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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