The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
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The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.
Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
Cosmetics; Perfumes
BALSAM.--Under this title there are two or three substances
used in perfumery, such as balsam of Peru, balsam of Tolu, and balsam of
storax (also called liquid amber). The first-named, is procured from the
_Myroxylon peruiferum_; it exudes from the tree when wounded, and is
also obtained by boiling down the bark and branches in water. The latter
is the most common method for procuring it. It has a strong odor, like
benzoin.
Balsam of Tolu flows from the _Toluifera balsammum_. It resembles common
resin (rosin); with the least warmth, however, it runs to a liquid, like
brown treacle. The smell of it is particularly agreeable, and being
soluble in alcohol makes a good basis for a bouquet, giving in this
respect a permanence of odor to a perfume which the simple solution of
an oil would not possess. For this purpose all these balsams are very
useful, though not so much used as they might be.
"ULEX has found that balsam of Tolu is frequently
adulterated with common resin. To detect this adulteration he
pours sulphuric acid on the balsam, and heats the mixture, when
the balsam dissolves to a cherry-red fluid, without evolving
sulphurous acid, but with the escape of benzoic or cinnamic acid,
if no common resin is present. On the contrary, the balsam foams,
blackens, and much sulphurous acid is set free, if it is
adulterated with common resin."--_Archives der Pharmacie_.
Balsam of storax, commonly called gum styrax, is obtained in the same
manner, and possessing similar properties, with a slight variation of
odor, is applicable in the same manner as the above.
They are all imported from South America, Chili, and Mexico, where the
trees that produce them are indigenous.
BAY, oil of sweet Bay, also termed essential oil of
laurel-berries, is a very fragrant substance, procured by distillation
from the berries of the bay laurel. Though very pleasant, it is not much
used.
BERGAMOT.--This most useful perfume is procured from the
_Citrus Bergamia_, by expression from the peel of the fruit. It has a
soft sweet odor, too well known to need description here. When new and
good it has a greenish-yellow tint, but loses its greenness by age,
especially if kept in imperfectly corked bottles. It then becomes cloudy
from the deposit of resinous matter, produced by the contact of the air,
and acquires a turpentine smell.
It is best preserved in well-stoppered bottles, kept in a cool cellar,
and in the dark; light, especially the direct sunshine, quickly
deteriorates its odor. This observation may be applied, indeed, to all
perfumes, except rose, which is not so spoiled.
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