The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
History
The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.
Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
Cosmetics; Perfumes
When bergamot is mixed with other essential oils it greatly adds to
their richness, and gives a sweetness to spice oils attainable by no
other means, and such compounds are much used in the most highly scented
soaps. Mixed with rectified spirit in the proportions of about four
ounces of bergamot to a gallon, it forms what is called "extract of
bergamot," and in this state is used for the handkerchief. Though well
covered with extract of orris and other matters, it is the leading
ingredient in Bayley and Blew's Ess. Bouquet (see BOUQUETS).
[Illustration: Styrax Benzoin.]
BENZOIN, also called Benjamin.--This is a very useful substance
to perfumers. It exudes from the _Styrax benzoin_ by wounding the tree,
and drying, becomes a hard gum-resin. It is principally imported from
Borneo, Java, Sumatra, and Siam. The best kind comes from the latter
place, and used to be called Amygdaloides, because of its being
interspersed with several white spots, which resemble broken almonds.
When heated, these white specks rise as a smoke, which is easily
condensed upon paper. The material thus separated from the benzoin is
called flowers of benzoin in commerce, and by chemists is termed benzoic
acid. It has all, or nearly all, the odor of the resin from which it is
derived.
The extract, or tincture of benzoin, forms a good basis for a
bouquet.[B] Like balsam of Tolu, it gives permanence and body to a
perfume made with an essential oil in spirit.
The principal consumption of benzoin is in the manufacture of pastilles
(see PASTILLES), and for the preparation of fictitious vanilla
pomade (see POMATUMS).
CARAWAY.--This odoriferous principle is drawn by distillation
from the seeds of the _Carum carui_. It has a very pleasant smell, quite
familiar enough without description. It is well adapted to perfume soap,
for which it is much used in England, though rarely if ever on the
continent; when dissolved in spirit it may be used in combination with
oil of lavender and bergamot for the manufacture of cheap essences, in a
similar way to cloves (see CLOVES). If caraway seeds are
ground, they are well adapted for mixing to form sachet powder (see
SACHETS).
CASCARILLA.--The bark is used in the formation of pastilles,
and also enters into the composition known as _Eau a Bruler_, for
perfuming apartments, to which we refer.
The bark alone of this plant is used by the manufacturing perfumer, and
that only in the fabrication of pastilles. The _Cascarilla gratissimus_
is however so fragrant, that according to Burnett its leaves are
gathered by the Koras of the Cape of Good Hope as a perfume, and both
the _C. fragrans_ and _C. fragilis_ are odoriferous. It behooves
perfumers, therefore, who are on the look out for novelties, to obtain
these leaves and ascertain the result of their distillation.
Messrs. Herring and Co., some years ago, drew the oil of cascarilla, but
it was only offered to the trade as a curiosity.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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