The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
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The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.
Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
Cosmetics; Perfumes
CASSIA.--The essential oil of cassia is procured by distilling
the outer bark of the _Cinnamomum cassia_. 1 cwt. of bark yields rather
more than three quarters of a pound of oil; it has a pale yellow color;
in smell it much resembles cinnamon, although very inferior to it. It is
principally used for perfuming soap, especially what is called "military
soap," as it is more aromatic or spicy than flowery in odor; it
therefore finds no place for handkerchief use.
CASSIE.--
"The short narcissus and fair daffodil,
Pansies to please the sight, and _cassie_ sweet to swell."
DRYDEN'S _Virgil_.
This is one of those fine odors which enters into the composition of the
best handkerchief bouquets.
[Illustration: Flower-buds of the Acacia Farnesiana.]
When smelled at alone, it has an intense violet odor, and is rather
sickly sweet.
It is procured by maceration from the _Acacia farnesiana_. The purified
fat is melted, into which the flowers are thrown and left to digest for
several hours; the spent flowers are removed, and fresh are added, eight
or ten times, until sufficient richness of perfume is obtained. As many
flowers are used as the grease will cover, when they are put into it, in
a liquid state.
After being strained, and the pomade has been kept at a heat sufficient
only to retain its liquidity, all impurities will subside by standing
for a few days. Finally cooled, it is the cassie pomade of commerce. The
_Huile de Cassie_, or fat oil of cassie, is prepared in a similar
manner, substituting the oil of Egyptian ben nut, olive oil, or almond
oil, in place of suet. Both these preparations are obviously only a
solution of the true essential oil of cassie flowers in the neutral
fatty body. Europe may shortly be expecting to import a similar scented
pomade from South Australia, derived from the Wattle, a plant that
belongs to the same genus as the _A. farnesiana_, and which grows most
luxuriantly in Australia. Mutton fat being cheap, and the wattle
plentiful, a profitable trade may be anticipated in curing the flowers,
&c.
To prepare the extract of cassie, take six pounds of No. 24 (best
quality) cassie pomade, and place upon it one gallon of the best
rectified spirit, as sent out by Bowerbank, of Bishopsgate. After it has
digested for three weeks or a month, at a summer heat, it is fit to draw
from the pomatum, and, if good, has a beautiful green color and rich
flowery smell of the cassie blossom. All extracts made by this
process--_maceration_, or, as it may be called, cold _infusion_, give a
more natural smell of the flowers to the result, than by merely
dissolving the essential oil (procured by distillation) in the spirit;
moreover, where the odor of the flower exists in only very minute
quantities, as in the present instance, and with violet, jasmine, &c.,
it is the only practical mode of proceeding.
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