The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
History
The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.
Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
Cosmetics; Perfumes
OLIBANUM is a gum resin, used to a limited extent in this
country, in the manufacture of incense and pastilles. It is chiefly
interesting as being one of those odoriferous bodies of which frequent
mention is made in the Holy volume.[C]
"It is believed," says Burnett, "to have been one of the ingredients in
the sweet incense of the Jews; and it is still burnt as incense in the
Greek and Romish churches, where the diffusion of such odors round the
altar forms a part of the prescribed religious service."
Olibanum is partially soluble in alcohol, and, like most of the balsams,
probably owes its perfume to a peculiar odoriferous body, associated
with the benzoic acid it contains.
For making the tincture or extract of olibanum, take 1 pound of the gum
to 1 gallon of the spirit.
ORANGE.--Under the title "Neroli" we have already spoken of the
odoriferous principle of the orange-blossom. We have now to speak of
what is known in the market as Essence of Orange, or, as it is more
frequently termed, Essence of Portugal,--a name, however, which we
cannot admit in a classified list of the "odors of plants."
The otto of orange-peel, or odoriferous principle of the orange fruit,
is procured by expression and by distillation. The peel is rasped in
order to crush the little vessels or sacs that imprison the otto.
Its abundance in the peel is shown by pinching a piece near the flame of
a candle; the otto that spirts out ignites with a brilliant
illumination.
It has many uses in perfumery, and from its refreshing fragrance finds
many admirers.
It is the leading ingredient in what is sold as "Lisbon Water" and "Eau
de Portugal." The following is a very useful form for preparing
LISBON WATER.
Rectified spirit (not less than 60 over proof), 1 gallon.
Otto of orange peel, 3 oz.
" lemon peel, 3 oz.
" rose 1/4 oz.
This is a form for
EAU DE PORTUGAL.
Rectified spirit (60 over proof), 1 gallon.
Essential oil of orange peel, 6 oz.
" lemon peel, 1 oz.
" lemon grass, 1/4 oz.
" bergamot, 1 oz.
" otto of rose, 1/4 oz.
It should be noted that these perfumes are never to be filled into wet
bottles, for if in any way damp from water, a minute portion of the
ottos are separated, which gives an opalescent appearance to the
mixture. Indeed, all bottles should be _spirit rinsed_ prior to being
filled with any perfume, but especially with those containing essences
of orange or lemon peel.
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