The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc. — John Shaqi
The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
History
The Art of Perfumery, and Methods of Obtaining the Odors of Plants: With Instructions for the Manufacture of Perfumes for the Handkerchief, Scented Powders, Odorous Vinegars, Dentifrices, Pomatums, Cosmetics, Perfumed Soap, Etc., to which is Added an Appendix on Preparing Artificial Fruit-Essences, Etc.
Piesse, G. W. Septimus (George William Septimus)
Cosmetics; Perfumes
ORRIS, properly IRIS.--The dried rhizome of _Iris
florentina_ has a very pleasant odor, which, for the want of a better
comparison, is said to resemble the smell of violets; it is, however,
exceedingly derogatory to the charming aroma of that modest flower when
such invidious comparisons are made. Nevertheless the perfume of iris
root is good, and well worthy of the place it has obtained as a
perfuming substance. The powder of orris root is very extensively used
in the manufacture of sachet powders, tooth-powder, &c. It fathers that
celebrated "oriental herb" known as "Odonto." For tincture of orris, or,
as the perfumers call it,
EXTRACT OF ORRIS,
Take orris root, crushed, 7 lbs.
Rectified spirits, 1 gallon.
After standing together for about a fortnight, the extract is fit to
take off. It requires considerable time to drain away, and, to prevent
loss, the remainder of the orris should be placed in the tincture press.
This extract enters into the composition of many of the most celebrated
bouquets, such as "Jockey Club," and others, but is never sold alone,
because its odor, although grateful, is not sufficiently good to stand
public opinion upon its own merits; but in combination its value is very
great; possessing little aroma itself, yet it has the power of
strengthening the odor of other fragrant bodies; like the flint and
steel, which though comparatively incombustible, readily fire
inflammable bodies.
PALM.--The odor of palm oil--the fat oil of commerce--is due to
a fragrant principle which it contains. By infusion in alcohol, the
odoriferous body is dissolved, and resembles, to a certain extent, the
tincture of orris, or of extract of violet, but is very indifferent, and
is not likely to be brought into use, though several attempts have been
made to render it of service when the cultivation of the violets have
failed from bad seasons.
PATCHOULY.--_Pogostemon patchouly_ (LINDLEY),
_Plectranthus crassifolius_ (BURNETT), is an herb that grows
extensively in India and China. It somewhat resembles our garden sage in
its growth and form, but the leaves are not so fleshy.
[Illustration: Patchouly.]
The odor of patchouly is due to an otto contained in the leaves and
stems, and is readily procured by distillation. 1 cwt. of good herb will
yield about 28 oz. of the essential oil, which is of a dark brown color,
and of a density about the same as that of oil of sandal wood, which it
resembles in its physical character. Its odor is the most powerful of
any derived from the botanic kingdom; hence, if mixed in the proportion
of measure for measure, it completely covers the smell of all other
bodies.
EXTRACT OF PATCHOULY.
Rectified spirit, 1 gallon.
Otto of patchouly, 1-1/4 oz.
" rose, 1/4 oz.
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