The Arts and Crafts of Older Spain, Volume 1 (of 3)Williams, Leonard
History
The Arts and Crafts of Older Spain, Volume 1 (of 3)
Williams, Leonard
Decorative arts -- Spain -- History
The Moorish women of this country, and in particular the
Granadinas,[41] were passionately fond of jewellery. Ornaments which
once belonged to them are sometimes brought to light in Andalusia,
Murcia, or Valencia, including pendants, rings, necklaces, and _axorcas_
or bangles for the ankle or the wrist, and bracelets for the upper
portion of the arm. The National Museum contains a small collection of
these objects, dating from the time of the Moriscos, and including a
handsome necklace terminating in a double chain, with ball and pyramid
shaped ornaments about the centre, a square-headed finger-ring with four
green stones and a garnet, and a hollow bracelet filled with a substance
that appears to be mastic, similar to those which are reproduced in
Plate xiii.
[41] "As to the ornaments and jewels of the ladies of Granada, these
wear at present necklaces of rich design, bracelets, rings (upon
their ankles), and earrings of pure gold; together with quantities
of silver and of precious stones upon their shoes. I say this of
the middle class; for ladies of the aristocracy and of the older
noble families display a vast variety of gems, such as rubies,
chrysolites, emeralds, and pearls of great value. The ladies of
Granada are commonly fair to look upon, shapely, of good stature,
with long hair, teeth of a shining white, and perfumed breath,
gracefully alert in their movements, and witty and agreeable in
conversation. But unfortunately at this time their passion for
painting themselves and for arraying themselves in every kind of
jewellery and costly stuffs has reached a pitch that is no longer
tolerable."--Al-Jattib, in _The Splendour of the New Moon
concerning the Nasrite Sultans of Granada_.
These jewels, I repeat, are of Morisco workmanship, and therefore date
from later than the independent empire of the Spanish Moors.
Nevertheless, the geometrical or filigree design was common both to
Moorish and Morisco art. As I observed in my description of the
casket-reliquaries, we note continually the influence of these motives
on the arts of Christian Spain. The Ordinances relative to the
goldsmiths and the silversmiths of Granada, cried at various times
between 1529 and 1538, whether "in the silversmiths' street of the
Alcaycería, that has its opening over against the scriveners'"; or in
"the street of the Puente del Carbon, before the goldsmiths' shops"; or
"in the street of the Zacatin, where dwell the silversmiths," prove also
that for many years after the Reconquest the character and nomenclature
of this kind of work continued to be principally and traditionally
Moorish.
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