The Arts and Crafts of Older Spain, Volume 3 (of 3)Williams, Leonard
History
The Arts and Crafts of Older Spain, Volume 3 (of 3)
Williams, Leonard
Decorative arts -- Spain -- History
Probably, therefore, this fragment was taken to Madrid at the same time
as the ring--that is, in the year 1677. It has an irregular shape, and
measures eighteen inches long by thirteen and a half in breadth. The
material is a woven mixture of silk and gold thread, and the decoration
consists of castles and lions in gold and red respectively, upon a
ground of carmine and dirty white. Count Valencia de Don Juan points out
that this strip belonged to the lower end of the mantle, since it
includes a portion of the border, formed by a series of horizontal
stripes, blue, yellow, red, and gold. The character of the whole
fragment is decidedly Mohammedan, and indicates a Mudejar fabric, made
at Seville in the thirteenth century.
I find that in the _Book of Chess_ of Alfonso the Learned (an
illuminated Spanish manuscript executed in the thirteenth century, and
now preserved at the Escorial), Alfonso himself is represented (Plate
iii.) as wearing a mantle with this very pattern of lions and castles
contained in squares. Therefore it seems extremely probable, either that
this device was not uncommon on the robes of Spanish kings, or else that
at some time the body of San Fernando was enveloped in a mantle
belonging to, and which perhaps had been inherited by, his son.
[Illustration: III
KING ALFONSO THE LEARNED
(_From "The Book of Chess"; MS. in the Escorial Library_)]
The clothing of the Infante Don Felipe and of Doña Leonor, his wife,
consists of the prince's cloak, which is nearly intact, a piece of his
_aljuba_, his cap, and a strip of silken cloth inwoven with gold. The
latter fragment is thought to have belonged to the robe of the Infanta.
These objects, discovered in 1848, in the tomb of Don Felipe and Doña
Leonor, at Villalcazar de Sirga, near Palencia, are now in the National
Museum. The cloak or mantle is richly wrought in silk and gold, and
bears the word _Blessing_, woven in Cufic characters upon the ground.
The _aljuba_ is also of silk and gold, showing a delicate combination of
blue and yellow, and the style and workmanship of all these fragments
are unmistakably Mohammedan.
Therefore, in textile crafts, the Spanish Moors supplied the wants and
the caprices both of themselves and of their enemies the Christians.
The relationship between certain under-garments of the two peoples is
evident from the very titles of those garments. Thus, the Spanish
_joquejo_ or _soquejo_, a scarf for winding round a woman's body, is
obviously derived, or merely corrupted, from the Arabic _jocob_; the
Spanish _arrede_ or _arrelde_, a kind of cloak, from the Arabic
_arrida_, and the Spanish shirt or tunic for ordinary wear, called the
_casot_, _quesote_, or _quizote_ (which was sometimes white and
sometimes coloured) from the Arabic _al-kuesnat_. The _Chronicle of Juan
the Second_ (A.D. 1410) tells of a mountain covered with Moorish troops,
"and all of them had red _quesotes_."
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