[Illustration: IV SPANISH VELVET (_Red upon Gold Ground. About A.D. 1500_)] Among the cities of Moorish Spain, Almería and Granada were undoubtedly those which produced the handsomest stuffs--Almería from comparatively early in the days of Muslim domination, Granada from a somewhat later time.[8] Notices are extant of Christian princes who directly ordered these materials from Granada; _e.g._ in 1392 Don Juan the First caused to be purchased there, as a present to his daughter on her marriage, "una cambra de saya orlada ab son dozer e cobertor de color vermella, blaua, ó vert, ù otro que fuera de buena vista" (_Archives of the Crown of Aragon_). The manufacture of velvet was probably introduced into Aragon in the reign of Pedro the Fourth. Excellent silks and cloth of gold were also made at Málaga, Seville, Toledo, and Valencia. Indeed, no better source exists for studying the character of this important industry in older Spain than the Ordinances of the cities I have just enumerated.[9] We learn from these municipal provisions, most of which were framed or ratified in the reign of Ferdinand and Isabella, that the mingling of fine with base material was forbidden in the strictest terms, and that the styles and classes of even the luxurious and elaborate stuffs, which bore an infinite variety of devices, were very numerous. Thus, there were satins, taffetas, _azeytunis_, double and single velvets (Plates iv. and vii.), brocades, and silken serges; as well as fabrics interwoven with gold and silver thread, including the _gorgoranes_, _restaños_, _sargas_, and _jergas de filigrana de plata_. The Ordinances of Toledo mention the following fabrics as manufactured in that city in the reigns of Ferdinand and Isabella, and of Charles the Fifth:-- "Stuffs of gold and silver made in the same manner as satin. "Satins woven with gold. "Satins brocaded with silk and gold, or silver flowers. "Silver serges with double filigree. "Silver and gold materials, which are made like _gorgoran_ or serge. "Silver and gold stuffs which are made like taffetas, or in silver with silk flowers. "Embroidered stuffs. "Embroidered stuffs called silver serge, or _berguilla_. "_Lama_, cloth of silver, shaded with watering in silver. "Plain silk-stuffs woven with silver or gold, and called _restaño_. "Silk-stuffs woven with gold or silver, and called _relampagos_. "Serges woven with gold and silver for church vestments. "Plain filigree serges. "_Velillo_ of silver. "Satin woven with gold and silver. "Brocades of different kinds. "Church vestments. "Silver _primaveras_. "Serges for church vestments."