The Arts and Crafts of Older Spain, Volume 3 (of 3) — John Shaqi
The Arts and Crafts of Older Spain, Volume 3 (of 3)Williams, Leonard
History
The Arts and Crafts of Older Spain, Volume 3 (of 3)
Williams, Leonard
Decorative arts -- Spain -- History
But where the Spanish Moors were in possession of the soil, their
clothes were similar in most respects to those of eastern peoples.
Detailed notices of these costumes are furnished us by Ibn-Said and
other writers. Fray Pedro de Alcalá explains in his _Vocabulary_ that,
among the Granadinos, the use of one garment in particular was limited
to royalty, or nobles of high rank. This was the _libas_ (or, in the
Granadino dialect, _libis_), shaped like roomy breeches, and greatly
resembling the _zaragüelles_ worn until this hour by the peasants of the
Huerta of Valencia. Ibn-Said, quoted by Al-Makkari (see Gayangos,
_History of the Mohammedan Dynasties in Spain_, Vol. I., p. 116) says
that the dress of the Moors of Andalusia was not identical with that of
the Asiatic Mussulman. The former, he declares, would often discard the
turban; especially those who lived towards the eastern frontier. In the
western region the turban continued to be generally worn by the upper
classes and by the leading State officials. Thus, at Cordova and Seville
every _cadi_ and _alfaqui_ would wear a turban, while at Valencia and
Murcia even the nobles went without it, and among the lower classes it
had fallen into absolute disuse. Neither officers nor soldiers of the
army wore the turban.
We learn from Casiri (_Bibl. Arabico-Hispana_, II., p. 258) that the
_imama_[11] was the only form of head-dress used by the _cheiks_,
_cadis_, and _ulemas_ of Granada. At this capital red was the
distinctive colour of the sovereigns of the Alahmar dynasty, who took
their very title from this circumstance, the Arabic word _alahmar_
meaning "red." The distinctive colour of the Nasrite sultans was purple,
which was replaced by black in time of mourning. In this last fashion
the sultans were probably influenced by the Christian usage, for
Ibn-Khaldun remarks that black was not a colour approved of by the
orientals, who considered it to be related with the spirits of evil.
However this may be, the manuscript _History of the House of Cordova_
quoted by Eguilaz Yanguas, says that when Boabdil el Chico entered that
city as a prisoner, "the captive monarch was dressed in black velvet, in
token of his adverse fortune and defeat. He rode a richly caparisoned
charger, whose coat was black and glossy."
[11] This was a large form of turban. In the well-known painting in the
Hall of Justice of the Alhambra, the head-dress is the _aharim_ or
_almaizar_.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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