The Arts and Crafts of Older Spain, Volume 3 (of 3)Williams, Leonard
History
The Arts and Crafts of Older Spain, Volume 3 (of 3)
Williams, Leonard
Decorative arts -- Spain -- History
[8] The Alburquerque inventory mentions, in 1560, "two Almería sheets,
one with green and purple edging, and the other with white and red";
also "two _short_ holland shirts for sleeping in at night."
Commenting on the word _short_, Señor de la Torre de Trassierra
aptly recalls the thrifty proverb of the Spaniards,--"A shirt which
reaches below the navel is so much linen wasted."
[9] See particularly _Las Ordenanzas de los tejedores de seda de
Sevilla_ (officially proclaimed on March 2nd, 1502), and also _Las
Ordenanzas para el buen régimen y gobierno de la muy noble, muy
leal, é imperial cuidad de Toledo_. (_Tit._ cxxxv: "silk-weavers.")
It was usual for ladies of the Christian-Spanish aristocracy to trim
their clothes, in Moorish fashion, with strings of larger pearls or of
_aljofar_-work--a custom which continued until the extinction of the
House of Austria. The Alburquerque inventory includes "a _marlota_ of
crimson satin, trimmed with pearls and with _aljofar_, as to the hem,
the sleeves, and the hood; with twelve buttons of _aljofar_-pearls in
the front thereof, that on a time were thirteen; but one is missing
_which was ground up for the said Duchess when she was sick_, and six
buttons on each sleeve, and the same where each sleeve meets the
shoulder."
Early in the seventeenth century, Pinheiro da Veiga mentions the same
fashion at Valladolid:--"At the sale of the Marchioness of Mondejar, I
saw twelve of her _sayas_ with long trains to them, and satin bodices,
all of embroidered silk, and some with _aljofar_-work, besides a number
of all kinds of _diabluras_."
It is stated by Ibn-Said, Al-Makkari, Al-Khattib, and Ibn-Khaldun, that
the Moors of Granada occasionally adopted Christian clothing, and we
know that the Sultan Mohammed, a contemporary of Alfonso the Learned of
Castile, was assassinated by Abrahim and Abomet, the sons of Osmin,
because he was so clothed, and because he had further violated the
precepts of the Koran by eating at Alfonso's table.[10] But as a rule
the costume of the Spanish Moors was almost wholly that of orientals.
Where they were tolerated in a city under Christian rule, a certain
dress was sometimes forced upon them by their subjugators, as by the
_Ordenamiento_ (A.D. 1408) of Doña Catalina, issued on behalf of her
son, Juan the Second, and which prescribed for the Moorish men a _capuz_
of yellow cloth with a mark upon it in the form of a blue half-moon
measuring an inch from point to point, and which was to be worn on the
right shoulder. The garments of the women were to be similarly marked,
on pain of fifty lashes administered publicly, together with the
forfeiture of all such clothes as lacked this necessary and humiliating
token.
[10] On the other hand, Rosmithal recorded in his narrative of a tour of
Spain that Henry the Second of Castile affected the costume of the
Mohammedans.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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