The Arts and Crafts of Older Spain, Volume 3 (of 3)Williams, Leonard
History
The Arts and Crafts of Older Spain, Volume 3 (of 3)
Williams, Leonard
Decorative arts -- Spain -- History
The laws affecting the dyers of silk contain the following provisions.
They were not to dye with pomegranate or sumach, and if the rind of the
former fruit were found in their houses, they were liable to a fine of
six thousand _maravedis_ and thirty days' imprisonment. Dyeing with
Brazil-wood was also prohibited in the case of silks of finer quality
exposed for sale in the Alcaicería. Elaborate directions follow as to
the manner of applying the dye. In the case of silks dyed blue or
purple, the dyer, before he drew the fabric from the vat, was required
to show it to the _alamin_ or inspector of the silk, or else to one of
the _veedores_ nominated by the city councillors. The fines imposed upon
the dyers who were found to contravene these regulations were
distributed in the following proportion: one-third towards repairing the
ramparts or _adarves_ of Granada; another third between the _alamin_,
the _veedores_, and the other officials who discovered and denounced the
culprit; and the remaining third between the magistrates and other
authorities who tried and sentenced him.
Further, each silk-dyer was to have six _tinajas_, or large jars (see
Vol. II., pp. 120 _et seq._), kept continually full of dye, well
settled, and liable at any hour to be analyzed by the _veedores_. In
dyeing fabrics black, each pound of silk was to be treated with ten
ounces of foreign galls of fine quality, two ounces of copperas, and two
ounces of gum-arabic.
It is evident that nearly all this legislation was of a mischievous
character, nor can it cause surprise that certain of the silk-makers of
this locality should have been in the habit of committing many kinds of
fraud, such as mixing salt or oil with the raw material, in order to
increase its weight. Thus, at the same time that the laws themselves
were made more numerous and stringent, the more elaborate and various
were the shifts invented by the citizens as a means to violate those
laws. The inspectors were empowered to enter a shop and examine its
contents at any hour. Sometimes, we read, such ingress was denied them,
and the door was kept closed, or slammed in their faces. The penalty for
this resistance was a fine of two thousand _maravedis_ and twenty days
imprisonment. No silk-spinner was allowed to possess more than two
spinning-wheels (Ordinance of November 18th, 1501), or to keep these
working after midnight, for we are told that in this way the _veedores_
were impeded from paying their official visit in the small hours of the
morning, and much "deceit and insult" was the consequence. This
Ordinance was confirmed by a royal rescript of 1542.
[Illustration: VII
VELVET MADE AT GRANADA
(_Late 15th Century_)]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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