The Arts and Crafts of Older Spain, Volume 3 (of 3) — John Shaqi
The Arts and Crafts of Older Spain, Volume 3 (of 3)Williams, Leonard
History
The Arts and Crafts of Older Spain, Volume 3 (of 3)
Williams, Leonard
Decorative arts -- Spain -- History
Another group of _Ordenanzas_ concerns the weavers and the
silk-merchants of the Alcaicería, determining that no silk was to be
imported from the kingdoms of Valencia or Murcia, and that no merchant
was to buy the raw material in order to resell it at a profit, but might
only trade in the productions of his own factory. Minute instructions
are appended for weaving the various stuffs which had a silk foundation,
such as several kinds of damask, scarlet velvet[16] many kinds of satin,
velvet dyed with Brazil-wood, taffeta of four leishes, taffeta of two
leishes, and _sargas_, or silken serge. Other fabrics mentioned in the
Ordinances are _tocas_ called "San Juanes," _campuses moriscos_
(elsewhere "las tocas moriscas que se llaman _campuzas_"), "las tocas
moriscas labradas que se dizen _coninos_," _quinales_ and _alfardillas_,
_alcaydias_, _tocas de Reyna_, and _espumillas_. Most of these names are
of obscure meaning at the present day; but I find that _espumillas_ were
silken crape, while _alfardillas_ are defined in the old dictionary of
Fathers Connelly and Higgins as "an ancient kind of silken ribbon, or
tape."
[16] Granada was especially renowned for her velvets (Plate vii.),
grounded or relieved, in the oriental manner, with gold or silver.
No weaver was allowed to be the owner of more than four looms for making
velvet, satin, damask, taffeta, or silken serges. The apprentice to a
satin-maker required to be bound for a minimum term of three years, the
apprentice to a damask-maker for five years, the apprentice to a
taffeta-maker for three years. No weaver was to have more than three
apprentices at one time, except in the case of the damask-makers, who
might have four. No weaver might dismiss his apprentice without deponing
to the cause before the city officers, nor might he accept money, or
anything in lieu of money, from an apprentice. Master-weavers were
required to pass their examinations in Granada; no other city would
suffice.
We further learn that many of the apprentices were "of evil character,"
and damaged velvet stuffs "maliciously, though knowing perfectly how to
weave the same." If any worker at this craft fell sick, the guild or
_oficio_ was to defray the expenses of his cure, including physic "until
he be recovered, provided his be not a venereal ailment, or a wound
inflicted with a knife." If he succumbed, the guild was to bury him; and
when a master-weaver died, his apprentices were compelled to serve out
the rest of their indentures with his widow, or his sons. No slave might
learn to weave, even though he should be made a _horro_ or freedman.
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