Matterhorn (Switzerland and Italy); Mountaineering
Sunday, the 6th of July, was showery, and snow fell on the Matterhorn, but
we started on the following morning with our three men, and pursued my
route of the previous year. I was requested to direct the way, as none
save myself had been on the mountain before. I did not distinguish myself
upon this occasion, and led my companions nearly to the top of the small
peak before the mistake was discovered. The party becoming rebellious, a
little exploration was made towards our right, and we found that we were
upon the top of the cliff overlooking the Col du Lion. The upper part of
the small peak is of a very different character to the lower part; the
rocks are not so firm, and they are usually covered, or intermixed, with
snow, and glazed with ice: the angle too is more severe. While descending
a small snow-slope, to get on to the right track, Kronig slipped on a
streak of ice, and went down at a fearful pace. Fortunately he kept on his
legs, and, by a great effort, succeeded in stopping just before he arrived
at some rocks that jutted through the snow, which would infallibly have
knocked him over. When we rejoined him a few minutes later, we found that
he was incapable of standing, much less of moving, with a face corpse-like
in hue, and trembling violently. He remained in this condition for more
than an hour, and the day was consequently far advanced before we arrived
at our camping-place on the Col. Profiting by the experience of last year,
we did not pitch the tent actually on the snow, but collected a quantity
of débris from the neighbouring ledges, and after constructing a rough
platform of the larger pieces, levelled the whole with the dirt and mud.
Meynet had proved invaluable as a tent-bearer; for—although his legs were
more picturesque than symmetrical, and although he seemed to be built on
principle with no two parts alike—his very deformities proved of service;
and we quickly found he had spirit of no common order, and that few
peasants are more agreeable companions, or better climbers, than little
Luc Meynet, the hunchback of Breil. He now showed himself not less
serviceable as a scavenger, and humbly asked for gristly pieces of meat,
rejected by the others, or for suspicious eggs; and seemed to consider it
a peculiar favour, if not a treat, to be permitted to drink the
coffee-grounds. With the greatest contentment he took the worst place at
the door of the tent, and did all the dirty work which was put upon him by
the guides, as gratefully as a dog—who has been well beaten—will receive a
stroke.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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