Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
At 2.15 we completed the ascent of a steeper pitch and found ourselves
on the edge of an easier terrain, where the mountain slopes back towards
the North-east shoulder. It was an obvious place for a halt: we were in
need of food; and we lay against the rocks to spend the remaining
fifteen minutes before we should turn for the descent according to our
bond. None of us was altogether “cooked”; we were not brought to a
standstill because our limbs would carry us no farther. I should be very
sorry to reach such a condition at this altitude; for one would not
recover easily; and a man who cannot take care of himself on the descent
will probably be the cause of disaster to his companions, who will have
little enough strength remaining to help themselves and him. It is
impossible to say how much farther we might have gone. In the light of
subsequent events it would seem that the margin of strength to deal with
an emergency was already small enough. I have little doubt that we could
have struggled up perhaps in two hours more to the North-east shoulder,
now little more than 400 feet above us. Whether we should then have been
fit to conduct our descent in safety is another matter.
While we ate such food as we had with us, chiefly sugar in one form or
another, chocolate, mintcake, or acid-drops, and best of all raisins and
prunes, we now had leisure to look about us. The summit of Everest, or
what appeared to be the summit (I doubt if we saw the ultimate tip),
lying back along the North-east ridge, was not impressive, and we were
too near up under this ridge to add anything to former observations as
to the nature of its obstacles. The view was necessarily restricted when
Everest itself hid so much country. But it was a pleasure to look
westwards across the broad North face and down it towards the Rongbuk
Glacier; it was satisfactory to notice that the North Peak which, though
perceptibly below us, had still held, so to speak, a place in our circle
when we started in the morning, this same Changtse had now become a
contemptible fellow beneath our notice. We saw his black plebeian head
rising from the mists, mists that filled all the valleys, so that there
was nothing in all the world as we looked from North-east to North-west
but the great twins Gyachung Kang and Chö Uyo; and even these, though
they regarded us still from a station of equality, were actually
inferior. The lesser of them is 26,000 feet, and we could clearly afford
to despise him; the greater Chö Uyo we had to regard respectfully before
we could be sure; his triangulated height is 26,870, whereas our aneroid
was reading only 26,800; it seemed that we were looking over his head,
but such appearances are deceptive, and we were glad to have the
confirmation of the theodolite later proving that we had reached 26,985
feet—higher than Chö Uyo by 100 feet and more.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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