Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
Rongbuk means “the valley of precipices or steep ravines.” The Lepchas
of Sikkim are occasionally called “Rong Pa,” i.e., the people of steep
ravines. It is also used for Upper Nepal, or rather for the people on
the Southern faces of the Himalayan heights, as they are people of the
steep ravines. I have also heard it used to mean Nepal itself. Some five
miles up the valley one comes out on to a plateau and is suddenly almost
brought up against the walls of the Rongbuk Monastery. Here also, as we
came out to the Rongbuk Monastery, we found the whole Southern end of
the valley filled with Mount Everest and quite close to us—apparently.
In any European climate one would have said that it was a short march to
its base, and one would have been terribly wrong. The air is
astonishingly clear; the scale is enormous. The mountain was 16 miles
off.
We pitched our camp just below the monastery with considerable
difficulty, as the wind was howling rather more than usual. Then we went
up to pay our respects to the Rongbuk Lama. This particular Lama was
beyond question a remarkable individual. He was a large, well-made man
of about sixty, full of dignity, with a most intelligent and wise face
and an extraordinarily attractive smile. He was treated with the utmost
respect by the whole of his people. Curiously enough, considering the
terrible severity of the climate at Rongbuk, all his surroundings were
far cleaner than any monastery we had previously, or indeed
subsequently, visited. This Lama has the distinction of being actually
the incarnation of a god, the god Chongraysay, who is depicted with nine
heads. With his extraordinary mobility of expression, he has also
acquired the reputation of being able to change his countenance. We were
received with full ceremony, and after compliments had been exchanged in
the usual way by the almost grovelling interpreter, Karma Paul (who was
very much of a Buddhist here), the Lama began to ask us questions with
regard to the objects of the Expedition. He was very anxious also that
we should treat his people kindly. His inquiries about the objects of
the Expedition were very intelligent, although at the same time they
were very difficult to answer. Indeed, this is not strange when one
comes to think how many times in England one has been asked—What is the
good of an exploration of Everest? What can you get out of it? And, in
fact, what is the object generally of wandering in the mountains? As a
matter of fact, it was very much easier to answer the Lama than it is to
answer inquiries in England. The Tibetan Lama, especially of the better
class, is certainly not a materialist. I was fortunately inspired to say
that we regarded the whole Expedition, and especially our attempt to
reach the summit of Everest, as a pilgrimage. I am afraid, also, I
rather enlarged on the importance of the vows taken by all members of
the Expedition. At any rate, these gentle “white lies” were very well
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