Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
received, and even my own less excusable one which I uttered to save
myself from the dreadful imposition of having to drink Tibetan tea was
also sufficiently well received. I told the Lama, through Paul, who,
fortunately enough, was able to repress his smiles (an actual record for
Paul, which must have strained him to his last ounce of strength), that
I had sworn never to touch butter until I had arrived at the summit of
Everest. Even this was well received. After that time I drank tea with
sugar or milk which was made specially for me.
[Illustration:
THE EXPEDITION AT BASE CAMP.
_Left to Right, Back Row_: MAJOR MORSHEAD, CAPTAIN GEOFFREY BRUCE,
CAPTAIN NOEL, DR. WAKEFIELD, MR. SOMERVELL, CAPTAIN NORRIS, MAJOR
NORTON.
_Front Row_: MR. MALLORY, CAPTAIN FINCH, DR. LONGSTAFF, GENERAL BRUCE,
COLONEL STRUTT, MR. CRAWFORD.
]
A word about Tibetan tea: the actual tea from which it is originally
made is probably quite sufficiently good, but it is churned up in a
great churn with many other ingredients, including salt, nitre, and
butter, and the butter is nearly invariably rancid, that is, as commonly
made in Tibet. I believe a superior quality is drunk by the upper
classes, but at any rate, to the ordinary European taste, castor-oil is
pleasant in comparison. One of the party, however, had managed to
acquire a taste for it, but then some people enjoy castor-oil!
The Lama finally blessed us and blessed our men, and gave us his best
wishes for success. He was very anxious that no animals of any sort
should be interfered with, which we promised, for we had already given
our word not to shoot during our Expedition in Tibet. He did not seem to
have the least fear that our exploring the mountain would upset the
demons who live there, but he told me that it was perfectly true that
the Upper Rongbuk and its glaciers held no less than five wild men.
There is, at any rate, a local tradition of the existence of such
beings, just as there is a tradition of the wild men existing right
through the Himalaya.
As a matter of fact, I really think that the Rongbuk Lama had a friendly
feeling for me personally, as he told the interpreter, Karma Paul, that
he had discovered that in a previous incarnation I had been a Tibetan
Lama. I do not know exactly how to take this. According to the life you
lead during any particular incarnation, so are you ranked for the next
incarnation; that is to say, if your life has been terrible, down you go
to the lowest depths, and as you acquire merit in any particular
existence, so in the next birth you get one step nearer to Nirvana. I am
perfectly certain that he would consider a Tibetan Lama a good bit
nearer the right thing than a Britisher could ever be, and so possibly
he may have meant that I had not degenerated so very far anyhow. I
should have liked to know, however, what the previous incarnations of
the rest of the party had been!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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