Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
Now began in earnest our race against the monsoon. I have often been
asked since my return, whether we should not have done better if we had
started sooner. I think none of us would have cared to have arrived at
our Upper Rongbuk camp a fortnight earlier in the year, nor, having done
so, would any good purpose have been served. As it was, the temperature
and the coldness of the wind was as much as any of us could keep up with
and still keep our good health. This was to be our Base Camp at a height
of 16,500 feet. We made suitable dumps of stores, pitched our mess
tents, put all our porters in tents at their own particular places, and
made ourselves as comfortable as circumstances allowed, strengthening
the tents in every way to resist the wind. Noel also pitched his
developing tent near the small stream that issues from the Rongbuk
Glacier. On our arrival water was hardly available; all the running
streams were frozen hard, and we drove the whole of our animals over
them. Where the glacier stream flowed fastest in the centre, we got
sufficient water for drinking purposes.
[Illustration:
VIEW AT BASE CAMP.
]
The establishment and support of such a large party (for we were
thirteen Europeans and over sixty of what may be termed other ranks) in
a country as desolate and as bare as Tibet is a difficulty. There is, of
course, no fuel to be found, with the exception of a very little scrubby
root which, burnt in large quantities, would heat an oven, but which was
not good enough or plentiful enough for ordinary cooking purposes.
Our first work, beyond the establishment of the Base Camp, was
immediately to send out a reconnaissance party. Strutt was put in charge
of this, and chose as his assistants Norton, Longstaff, and Morshead.
The remainder of the party had to work very hard dividing stores and
arranging for the movement up to the different camps we wished to make
on the way up the East Rongbuk Glacier to the North Col. It was pretty
apparent from Major Wheeler’s map that our advance up the East Rongbuk
to the glacier crossed by Mr. Mallory in 1921, which is below the Chang
La, would not be a very difficult road. But it was a very considerable
question how many camps should be established, and how full provision
should be made for each? We were naturally very anxious to save our own
porters for the much more strenuous work of establishing our camp at the
North Col, and perhaps of further camps up the mountain. I had,
therefore, on our march up, made every possible endeavour to collect a
large number of Tibetan coolies in order that they should be employed in
moving all the heavy stuff as far up the glacier as possible; in fact,
until we came to ground which would not be suitable to them, or, rather,
not suitable to their clothing. They were perfectly willing to work on
any ground which was fairly dry, but their form of foot-covering would
certainly not allow of continual work in snow. We had a promise of
ninety men.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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