Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
We had brought also large stores of rice, sugar, tea, and wheat grain,
both for the use of the officers of the Expedition and of the porters,
for fear we should run short of grain, and this proved a great stand-by.
The very rough tzampa of Tibet is often upsetting even to those most
accustomed to it. It was found to be an excellent policy to feed our
porters on the good grain when they came down to the Base Camp, and to
use the tzampa, which is cooked and ready for eating, at the upper
camps. Meat also had to be bought low down, sheep killed low down in the
valleys, and brought up for the use of the officers and men, and often
fresh yak meat for the porters. The Gurkhas got the fresh mutton. Dried
meat was brought up in large quantities for the porters, and proved of
the greatest use.
On the return, having received a full report from the reconnaissance
party, we tackled in earnest the establishment of the different camps.
Camp III, which was under the North Col, was first established in full.
This was to be our advance base of operations; and Mallory and Somervell
established themselves there, their business being to make the road to
the North Col while the rest of the Expedition was being pushed up to
join them. On May 13, Mallory, Somervell, and one coolie, together with
a tent, reached the North Col and planted the tent there.
This must be described as the beginning of the great offensive of May,
1922. Owing to the lack of coolies, all our officers and men had been
working at the highest possible speed, pushing forward the necessary
stores, camp equipage, and fuel to Camps I and II, and from thence
moving on to Camp III, Gurkhas being planted at each stage, whose
business it was to take the convoys to and fro. Finally, Camps I, II,
and III were each provided with an independent cook.
The duties of the cook at Camp III were the duties of an ordinary cook
in camp; those of the cooks at Camps I and II were to provide all
officers passing through or staying there with meals as they were
required, and right well all these three men carried out their duties.
The distance from the Base Camp to the advance base at Camp III was
fairly evenly divided, Camp I being at about three hours’ journey for a
laden animal at a height of 17,800 feet; Camp II a further four hours up
the glaciers at a height of 19,800 feet, and directly below the lesser
peak which terminates the Northern ridge of Everest; Camp III on moraine
at the edge of the open glacier below the Chang La, at a height of
21,000 feet, about four hours again beyond Camp II.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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