Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
Longstaff suffered considerably on the reconnaissance, and was brought
down not too fit. We also had a real set-back—our ninety coolies did not
eventuate, only forty-five appearing, and these coolies only worked for
about two days, when they said that their food was exhausted and they
must go down for more. We took the best guarantee we could for their
return by keeping back half their pay. They went for more food, but
found it in their houses and stopped there; we never saw them again.
However, it is not to be wondered at. If ploughing in the upper valleys
is to be done at all, it is to be done in May. They were, therefore,
very anxious to get back to their homes. Ninety men is a big toll for
these valleys to supply, but their behaviour left us rather dispirited.
We had to turn every one on to work, and then we had to make every
possible exertion to collect further coolies from the different
villages. The Chongay La who came with us, and who understood our needs,
was frantic, but said he could do nothing. However, we persuaded him to
do something, at any rate, and further offered very high prices to all
the men who had come. He certainly played up and did his very best. Men
came up in driblets, or rather men, women, and children came, as every
one in this country can carry loads, and they seem to be quite
unaffected by sleeping out under rocks at 16,000 or 17,000 feet.
For the whole time we remained at the Rongbuk Base Camp the equipping
and supply of our first and second camps up the East Rongbuk was mostly
carried out by local coolies, and the supply of these was very difficult
to assure. We never knew whether we should have three or four men
working, or thirty; they came up for different periods, so that we would
often have a dozen men coming down and four or five going up, and in
order to keep their complete confidence, they were received and paid
personally by myself or the transport officers. By degrees their
confidence was restored, and a very fair stream of porters arrived. Not
only that, but many of the men’s own relations came over from
Sola-Khombu, which is a great Sherpa Settlement at the head of the Dudh
Kosi Valley in Nepal. To reach us they had to cross the Ngangba La,
sometimes called the Khombu La, which is 19,000 feet in height. Often
the men’s relations came and were willing to carry a load or two and
then go off again. The mothers often brought their children, even of
less than a year old, who did not apparently suffer. It is evidently a
case of the survival of the fittest.
[Illustration:
CAMP II. AT SUNSET.
]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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