Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
All the time the porters were working from our Base Camp and up there
was great competition between them, and also considerable betting as to
who would do the hardest work—the true Tibetan-born porters or the
Sherpas from the South. It was rather amusing to see the superior airs
which the Sherpas invariably gave themselves in travelling through
Tibet. They considered Tibetans undoubtedly jăngli,[4] and treated them
very much from the point of view that a clever Londoner does the
simplest form of yokel when he appears in London. At any rate, they
backed themselves heavily to beat the Tibetans. It was a pretty good
race, but finally they came out well on top; in fact, I think all but
one who reached 25,000 feet and over were Sherpas. Paul, the
interpreter, and Gyaljen, had a great bet also about the officers, Paul
favouring Finch and Gyaljen Mallory. As a matter of fact, there was
quite a little book made among all the followers with regard to who
would go highest among the officers. I did not even belong to the “also
rans” between them. Oxygen was looked upon as a matter of no particular
importance, and I believe Paul made Gyaljen pay up, as he had won with
Finch against Mallory.
Footnote 4:
Wild.
On May 27 we welcomed the arrival of John Macdonald with a further
supply of money, as, owing to the large calls of our enormous transport,
we had been afraid of running short. This was very cheering to us
indeed, and also a very great help, for, besides the money, Mr.
Macdonald brought with him two or three servants very well accustomed to
travel in Tibet and knowing all the people of the country. These we were
able to use as special messengers, and we sent off immediately by them
an account of the climbs that had occurred. The second of them was
unfortunately delayed by illness, and this accounted for the slight
delay in letting the world know of our great second “oxygen” climb. The
first messenger rode through in ten days from Rongbuk to Phari, and by
so doing almost caught up the previous letters which had been despatched
through the Dzongpens. Arrangements are, after all, not so bad in Tibet.
When one considers that Tibetans themselves have no understanding or
care for time, the promptness with which the different communications
were sent through was rather wonderful. There were, on occasions, no
doubt, hitches, but, generally speaking, the postal arrangements worked
very well.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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