Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
The weather had become more and more threatening, but we could not bring
ourselves absolutely to give up for this year the attempts on Everest;
at the same time, the casualties were heavy. Our medical members had all
got to work and had tested thoroughly each member of the Expedition that
had been employed. It was evidently absolutely necessary that Morshead
should return as quickly as possible into hospital in India, and there
were also several other members who were suffering from their hard work.
Longstaff had “shot his bolt” as far as this year’s work was concerned,
and it was also most important that Morshead should have a doctor with
him. Strutt, too, was very much overdone, and it was time for him to
return. Norton was strained and tired, and Geoffrey’s toes, though not
so bad as Morshead’s, required that he should quickly go down to a
warmer climate. We therefore made up two convoys, which were to start
together from the Base Camp. Longstaff, Strutt, and Morshead to go with
the sardar Gyaljen direct to Darjeeling, travelling viâ Khamba Dzong,
and from Khamba Dzong directly South to Lachen and Gangtok and
Darjeeling by the shorter and quicker route. This would bring them quite
a week sooner to Darjeeling than the route by which we entered Tibet. It
was most important that Morshead should be got back as quickly as
possible; in fact, we were all very nervous about his condition, and we
were afraid that it might be necessary for some operation to be carried
out actually on the march.
It had always been our idea that as soon as we had finished with our
summer attack on Everest, the whole Expedition should go into the Kharta
Valley, where Colonel Howard-Bury in 1921 made his camps, and there
recover from our labours. The Kharta Valley is far lower than any other
district in this part of Tibet, lying between 11,000 and 12,000 feet
above sea-level; there are also many comforts which do not exist in
other parts. There is good cultivation, trees and grass to a certain
extent, and even some vegetables are obtainable. It is altogether a
charming spot—very charming compared with any other country we were
likely to see. The road was very high for sick men, as it led over the
Doya La, which is only 3 feet under 17,000 feet, but having once got
there, they would be in comfort compared with the Rongbuk Glacier.
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