Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
This being settled, the next question was the selection of the climbing
party. General Bruce would not be able to go on to the mountain itself,
and he would have plenty to do at the main base camp, seeing after
supplies and organising transport service from the main base to the high
mountain base. As chief at the mountain base, and as second-in-command
of the Expedition to take General Bruce’s place in case of any
misadventure to him, Lieutenant-Colonel E. L. Strutt was selected. He
was an Alpine climber of great experience and knowledge of ice and snow
conditions. But for the actual effort to reach the summit two men were
specially marked out. One, of course, was Mr. George Leigh-Mallory, who
had done such valuable service on the reconnaissance of the previous
year; and the other was Captain George Finch, who had been selected for
the first Expedition, but who had, through temporary indisposition, not
been able to go with it. Both of these were first-rate men and well
known for their skill in mountaineering. These two had been selected in
the previous year. Of new men, Major E. F. Norton was an experienced and
very reliable and thorough mountaineer. He is an officer in the
Artillery, and well known in India for his skill and interest in
pig-sticking. But in between his soldiering and his pig-sticking and a
course at the Staff College he seems to have found time for Alpine
climbing and for bird observation. A man of high spirit, who could be
trusted to keep his head under all circumstances and to help in keeping
a party together, he was a valuable addition to the Expedition. Mr.
Somervell was perhaps even more versatile in his accomplishments. He was
a surgeon in a London hospital, who was also skilled both in music and
painting, and yet found time for mountaineering, and, being younger than
the others, and possessed of exuberant energy and a fine physique, he
could be reckoned on to go with the highest climbers. Another member of
the medical profession who was also a mountaineer was Dr. Wakefield. He
was a Westmorland man, who had performed wonderful climbing feats in the
Lake District in his younger days, and now held a medical practice in
Canada. He was bursting with enthusiasm to join the expedition, and gave
up his practice for the purpose.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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