Everest, Mount (China and Nepal); Mount Everest Expedition (1922); Mountaineering expeditions--Everest, Mount (China and Nepal)
As medical officer and naturalist of the Expedition, Dr. T. G. Longstaff
was chosen. He was a veteran Himalayan climber, and if only this
Expedition could have been undertaken some years earlier, he, like
General Bruce, would have made a magnificent leader of a climbing party.
As it was, his great experience would be available for the climbers as
far as the high mountain camp. And this time it was intended to send
with the Expedition a “whole-time” photographer and cinematographer,
both for the purpose of having a photographic record of its progress and
also to provide the means by which the expenses of this and a future
expedition might be met. For this Captain J. B. Noel was selected. He
had made a reconnaissance towards Mount Everest in 1913, and he had
since then made a special study of photography and cinematography, so
that he was eminently suited for the task.
The above formed the party which would be sent out from England. And
subsequently General Bruce, in India, selected four others to join the
Expedition: Mr. Crawford, of the Indian Civil Service, a keen
mountaineer, who had long wished to join the Expedition; Major Morshead,
who had held charge of the survey party in the 1921 Expedition, and now
wanted to join the present Expedition as a climber; and two officers
from Gurkha regiments, to serve as transport officers, namely, Captain
Geoffrey Bruce and Captain Morris.
This completed the British personnel of the Expedition. It had been my
hope that a first-rate artist might have accompanied it to paint the
greatest peaks of the Himalaya, but the artists whom we chose were
unable to pass the medical examination, though the examination was, of
course, not so severe as the examination which the actual climbers had
to pass.
While these men were being selected, the Equipment Committee, Captain
Farrar and Mr. Meade, were working hard. Taking the advice of Colonel
Howard-Bury and Mr. Mallory, and profiting by the experience gained on
the previous Expedition, they got together and had suitably packed and
despatched to India a splendid outfit comprising every necessity for an
Expedition of this nature. The amount of work that Farrar put into this
was enormous; for as a mountaineer he knew well how the success of the
Expedition depended on each detail of the equipment being looked into,
and he spared himself no trouble and overlooked nothing. The stores were
of the most varied description, in order to meet the varying tastes of
the different members. The tents were improved in accordance with the
experience gained. Most particular attention was paid to the boots.
Clothing and bedding, light in weight but warm to wear, were specially
designed. Ice-axes, crampons, ropes, lanterns, cooking-stoves, and also
warm clothing for the porters, were all provided, and much else besides.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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