CHAPTER XIX. Arrival at Madrid—Maria Diaz—Printing of the Testament—My 256 Project—Andalusian Steed—Servant Wanted—An Application—Antonio Buchini—General Cordova—Principles of Honour CHAPTER XX. Illness—Nocturnal Visit—A Master Mind—The 270 Whisper—Salamanca—Irish Hospitality—Spanish Soldiers—The Scriptures advertised CHAPTER XXI. Departure from Salamanca—Reception at Pitiegua—The 280 Dilemma—Sudden Inspiration—The Good Presbyter—Combat of Quadrupeds—Irish Christians—Plains of Spain—The Catalans—The Fatal Pool—Valladolid—Circulation of the Scriptures—Philippine Missions—English College—A Conversation—The Gaoleress CHAPTER XXII. Dueñas—Children of Egypt—Jockeyism—The Baggage Pony—The 303 Fall—Palencia—Carlist Priests—The Look-out—Priestly Sincerity—Leon—Antonio alarmed—Heat and Dust CHAPTER XXIII. Astorga—The Inn—The Maragatos—Habits of the Maragatos—The 319 Statue CHAPTER XXIV. Departure from Astorga—The Venta—The By-path—Narrow 326 Escape—The Cup of Water—Sun and Shade—Bembibre—Convent of the Rocks—Sunset—Cacabelos—Midnight Adventure—Villafranca CHAPTER XXV. Villafranca—The Pass—Gallegan Simplicity—The Frontier 343 Guard—The Horse-shoe—Gallegan Peculiarities—A Word on Language—The Courier—Wretched Cabins—Host and Guests—Andalusians CHAPTER XXVI. Lugo—The Baths—A Family History—Miguelets—The Three 358 Heads—A Farrier—English Squadron—Sale of Testaments—Corunna—The Recognition—Luigi Piozzi—The Speculation—A Blank Prospect—John Moore CHAPTER XXVII. Compostella—Rey Romero—The Treasure-seeker—Hopeful 377 Project—The Church of Refuge—Hidden Riches—The Canon—Spirit of Localism—The Leper—Bones of Saint James CHAPTER XXVIII. Skippers of Padron—Caldas de los Reyes—Pontevedra—The 392 Notary Public—Insane Barber—An Introduction—Gallegan Language—Afternoon Ride—Vigo—The Stranger—Jews of the Desert—Bay of Vigo—Sudden Interruption—The Governor LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. VOL. I. PAGE SEVILLE _Frontispiece_ INTERIOR OF THE MOSQUE, CORDOVA _To face_ 238 INTRODUCTION. PART I. When George Borrow, in the month of November, 1835, steamed up the Tagus on his adventurous journey to distribute the Bible in Spain, the political situation throughout the Peninsula was so complicated and so extraordinary, that a brief review of the events of the few years immediately preceding his arrival will be necessary to enable any one but a specially instructed reader to appreciate, or even to understand, his position and his adventures.