Loneliness—The Dog—The Convent—Enchanting Landscape—Moorish Fortresses—Prayer for the Sick CHAPTER VII. The Druid’s Stone—The Young Spaniard—Ruffianly 82 Soldiers—Evils of War—Estremoz—The Brawl—Ruined Watch-tower—Glimpse of Spain—Old Times and New CHAPTER VIII. Elvas—Extraordinary Longevity—The English 94 Nation—Portuguese Ingratitude—Illiberality—Fortifications—Spanish Beggar—Badajoz—The Custom-House CHAPTER IX. Badajoz—Antonio the Gypsy—Antonio’s Proposal—The Proposal 105 accepted—Gypsy Breakfast—Departure from Badajoz—The Gypsy Donkey—Merida—The Ruined Wall—The Crone—The Land of the Moor—The Black Men—Life in the Desert—The Supper CHAPTER X. The Gypsy’s Granddaughter—Proposed Marriage—The 122 Alguazil—The Assault—Speedy Trot—Arrival at Trujillo—Night and Rain—The Forest—The Bivouac—Mount and Away!—Jaraicejo—The National—The Cavalier Balmerson—Among the Thickets—Serious Discourse—What is Truth?—Unexpected Intelligence CHAPTER XI. The Pass of Mirabete—Wolves and Shepherds—Female 145 Subtlety—Death by Wolves—The Mystery solved—The Mountains—The Dark Hour—The Traveller of the Night—Abarbenel—Hoarded Treasure—Force of Gold—The Archbishop—Arrival at Madrid CHAPTER XII. Lodging at Madrid—My Hostess—British 162 Ambassador—Mendizabal—Baltasar—Duties of a National—Young Blood—The Execution—Population of Madrid—The Higher Orders—The Lower Classes—The Bull-fighter—The Crabbed Gitano CHAPTER XIII. Intrigues at Court—Quesada and Galiano—Dissolution of the 179 Cortes—The Secretary—Aragonese Pertinacity—The Council of Trent—The Asturian—The Three Thieves—Benedict Mol—The Men of Lucerne—The Treasure CHAPTER XIV. State of Spain—Isturitz—Revolution of the Granja—The 194 Disturbance—Signs of Mischief—Newspaper Reporters—Quesada’s Onslaught—The Closing Scene—Flight of the Moderados—The Coffee Bowl CHAPTER XV. The Steamer—Cape Finisterre—The Storm—Arrival at Cadiz—The 208 New Testament—Seville—Italica—The Amphitheatre—The Prisoners—The Encounter—Baron Taylor—The Street and Desert CHAPTER XVI. Departure for Cordova—Carmona—German Colonies—Language—The 223 Sluggish Horse—Nocturnal Welcome—Carlist Landlord—Good Advice—Gomez—The Old Genoese—The Two Opinions CHAPTER XVII. Cordova—Moors of Barbary—The English—An Old Priest—The 233 Roman Breviary—The Dovecote—The Holy Office—Judaism—Desecration of Dovecotes—The Innkeeper’s Proposal CHAPTER XVIII. Departure from Cordova—The Contrabandista—Jewish 252 Cunning—Arrival at Madrid