The Bible in Spain, Vol. 2 [of 2]: Or, the Journeys, Adventures, and Imprisonments of an Englishman in an Attempt to Circulate the Scriptures in the PeninsulaBorrow, George
Religion
The Bible in Spain, Vol. 2 [of 2]: Or, the Journeys, Adventures, and Imprisonments of an Englishman in an Attempt to Circulate the Scriptures in the Peninsula
Borrow, George
Borrow, George, 1803-1881 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- History -- 19th century
I was now once more in beautiful Seville, and had soon ample time and
leisure to enjoy its delights and those of the surrounding country.
Unfortunately, at the time of my arrival, and indeed for the next ensuing
fortnight, the heaven of Andalusia, in general so glorious, was overcast
with black clouds, which discharged tremendous showers of rain, such as
few of the Sevillians, according to their own account, had ever seen
before. This extraordinary weather had wrought no little damage in the
neighbourhood, causing the Guadalquivir, which, during the rainy season,
is a rapid and furious stream, to overflow its banks, and to threaten an
inundation. It is true that intervals were occurring when the sun made
his appearance from his cloudy tabernacle, and with his golden rays
caused everything around to smile, enticing the butterfly forth from the
bush, and the lizard from the hollow tree, and I invariably availed
myself of these intervals to take a hasty promenade.
Oh how pleasant it is, especially in springtide, to stray along the
shores of the Guadalquivir! Not far from the city, down the river, lies
a grove called _Las Delicias_, or “The Delights.” It consists of trees
of various kinds, but more especially of poplars and elms, and is
traversed by long shady walks. This grove is the favourite promenade of
the Sevillians, and there one occasionally sees assembled whatever the
town produces of beauty or gallantry. There wander the black-eyed
Andalusian dames and damsels, clad in their graceful silken _mantillas_;
and there gallops the Andalusian cavalier, on his long-tailed thick-maned
steed of Moorish ancestry. As the sun is descending, it is enchanting to
glance back from this place in the direction of the city; the prospect is
inexpressibly beautiful. Yonder in the distance, high and enormous,
stands the Golden Tower, now used as a toll-house, but the principal
bulwark of the city in the time of the Moors. It stands on the shore of
the river, like a giant keeping watch, and is the first edifice which
attracts the eye of the voyager as he moves up the stream to Seville. On
the other side, opposite the tower, stands the noble Augustine convent,
the ornament of the _faubourg_ of Triana, whilst between the two edifices
rolls the broad Guadalquivir, bearing on its bosom a flotilla of barks
from Catalonia and Valencia. Further up is seen the bridge of boats,
which traverses the water. The principal object of this prospect,
however, is the Golden Tower, where the beams of the setting sun seem to
be concentrated as in a focus, so that it appears built of pure gold, and
probably from that circumstance received the name which it now bears.
Cold, cold must the heart be which can remain insensible to the beauties
of this magic scene, to do justice to which the pencil of Claude himself
were barely equal. Often have I shed tears of rapture whilst I beheld
it, and listened to the thrush and the nightingale piping forth their
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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