The Bible in Spain, Vol. 2 [of 2]: Or, the Journeys, Adventures, and Imprisonments of an Englishman in an Attempt to Circulate the Scriptures in the PeninsulaBorrow, George
Religion
The Bible in Spain, Vol. 2 [of 2]: Or, the Journeys, Adventures, and Imprisonments of an Englishman in an Attempt to Circulate the Scriptures in the Peninsula
Borrow, George
Borrow, George, 1803-1881 -- Travel -- Spain; Spain -- Description and travel; Spain -- History -- 19th century
I was fortunate in the possession of these quadrupeds, inasmuch as it
afforded me an opportunity of enjoying to a greater extent the beauties
of the surrounding country. I know of few things in this life more
delicious than a ride in the spring or summer season in the neighbourhood
of Seville. My favourite one was in the direction of Xeres, over the
wide Dehesa, as it is called, which extends from Seville to the gates of
the former town, a distance of nearly fifty miles, with scarcely a town
or village intervening. The ground is irregular and broken, and is for
the most part covered with that species of brushwood called _carrasco_,
amongst which winds a bridle-path, by no means well defined, chiefly
trodden by the _arrieros_, with their long trains of mules and
_borricos_. It is here that the balmy air of beautiful Andalusia is to
be inhaled in full perfection. Aromatic herbs and flowers are growing in
abundance, diffusing their perfume around. Here dark and gloomy cares
are dispelled as if by magic from the bosom, as the eyes wander over the
prospect, lighted by unequalled sunshine, in which gaily painted
butterflies wanton, and green and golden _salamanquesas_ lie extended,
enjoying the luxurious warmth, and occasionally startling the traveller,
by springing up and making off with portentous speed to the nearest
coverts, whence they stare upon him with their sharp and lustrous eyes.
I repeat, that it is impossible to continue melancholy in regions like
these, and the ancient Greeks and Romans were right in making them the
site of their Elysian fields. Most beautiful they are, even in their
present desolation, for the hand of man has not cultivated them since the
fatal era of the expulsion of the Moors, which drained Andalusia of at
least two-thirds of its population.
Every evening it was my custom to ride along the Dehesa, until the
topmost towers of Seville were no longer in sight. I then turned about,
and pressing my knees against the sides of Sidi Habismilk, my Arabian,
the fleet creature, to whom spur or lash had never been applied, would
set off in the direction of the town with the speed of a whirlwind,
seeming in his headlong course to devour the ground of the waste, until
he had left it behind, then dashing through the elm-covered road of the
Delicias, his thundering hoofs were soon heard beneath the vaulted
archway of the Puerta de Xeres, and in another moment he would stand
stone-still before the door of my solitary house in the little silent
square of the Pila Seca.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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