The Cambridge, Ely, and King's Lynn Road: The Great Fenland HighwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Cambridge, Ely, and King's Lynn Road: The Great Fenland Highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Fens, The (England) -- Description and travel
Leaving Denny Abbey behind, we come to Chittering, a place unknown to
guide-books and chartographers. We need blame neither the one nor the
other for this omission, for Chittering is remarkable for nothing but
its insignificance and lack of anything that makes for interest. It
consists, when you have counted everything in its constituent parts,
of two lonely public-houses, the Traveller's Rest and the Plough and
Horses, a grotesquely unbeautiful Baptist Chapel and a school, five
or six scattered cottages, and one new house, entrenched as it were
in a defensive manner behind a sedgy and duckweedy drain. It is here,
at a right-hand turning, that the exploratory cyclist turns off for
Wicken Fen, the last remaining vestige of the natural Fenland that
once overspread the greater part of the county. In Wicken Fen, a
square mile of peaty bog and quaking morass, where the reeds still
grow tall, and strange aquatic plants flourish, the rarer Fenland
lepidoptera find their last refuge. Dragon-flies, in glittering panoply
of green-and-gold armour and rainbow-hued wings, flash like miniature
lightnings over the decaying vegetation, and the sulphur-coloured,
white-and-scarlet butterflies find a very paradise in the moist and
steamy air. Wicken Fen is jealously preserved in its natural state,
and is a place of pilgrimage, not only for the naturalist, with his
butterfly-net and his collecting-box, but for all who would obtain some
idea of what this country was like in former ages. At the same time
it is a place difficult to find, and the route to it a toilsome one.
The Fens express flatness to the last degree, it is true, but, even
though they be drained, they are not easy to explore. Mountain-ranges
are, indeed, not more weariful than these flats, where you can never
make a straight course when once off the main roads, but are compelled
by dykes and drains to make for any given point by questing hither
and thither as though following the outlines of the squares on a
chessboard. The distance to Wicken Fen, measured from Chittering in
a direct line on the map, is not more than four miles. Actually, the
route is nearly eight.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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