The Cambridge, Ely, and King's Lynn Road: The Great Fenland HighwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Cambridge, Ely, and King's Lynn Road: The Great Fenland Highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Fens, The (England) -- Description and travel
The best among the Great Eastern Cambridge expresses of to-day does
the journey of 55¾ miles in 1 hour 13 minutes. Onward to Lynn, 97
miles, the best time made is 2 hours 25 minutes.
VIII
IT is a far cry from Shoreditch Church to the open country. Cobbett, in
1822, journeying from London to Royston, found the suburbs far-reaching
even then. "On this road," he says, "the enormous Wen" (a term of
contempt by which he indicated the Metropolis) "has swelled out to the
distance of above six or seven miles." But from the earliest times
London exhibited a tendency to expand more quickly in this direction
than in others, and Edmonton, Waltham Cross, and Ware lay within the
marches of Cockaigne long before places within a like radius at other
points of the compass began to lose their rural look. The reason is not
far to seek, and may be found in the fact that this, the great road to
the North, was much travelled always.
But where shall we set the limits of the Great Wen in recent times?
Even as these lines are written they are being pushed outwards. It is
not enough to put a finger on the map at Stamford Hill and to say,
"here, at the boundary of the London County Council's territory," or
"here at Edmonton, the limit of the 'N' division of the London Postal
Districts," or, again, "here, where the Metropolitan Police Area meets
the territories of the Hertfordshire and the Essex Constabulary at
Cheshunt"; for those are but arbitrary bounds, and, beyond their own
individual significances, tell us nothing. Have you ever, as a child,
looking, large-eyed and a little frightened it may be, out upon the
bigness of London, wondered where the houses ended and Gods own country
began, or asked where the last house of the last street looked out upon
the meadows, and the final flag-stone led on to the footpath of the
King's Highway?
I have asked, and there was none to tell, and if you in turn ask me
where the last house of the ultimate street stands on this way out of
London--I do not know! There are so many last houses, and they always
begin again; so that little romantic mental picture does not exist in
plain fact. The ending of London is a gradual and almost insensible
process. You may note it when, leaving Stoke Newington's continuous
streets behind, you rise Stamford Hill and perceive its detached and
semi-detached residences; and, pressing on, see the streets begin again
at Tottenham High Cross, continuing to Lower Edmonton. Here at last, in
the waste lands that stretch along the road, you think the object of
your search is found. As well seek that fabled pot of gold at the foot
of the rainbow. The pot and the gold may be there, but you will never,
never reach the rainbow.
The houses begin again, absurdly enough, at Ponder's End. You will come
to an end of them at last, but only gradually, and when, at fifteen and
three-quarter miles from Shoreditch Church, Broxbourne and the first
glimpse of "real country" are reached, the original quest is forgotten.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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