The Cambridge, Ely, and King's Lynn Road: The Great Fenland HighwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Cambridge, Ely, and King's Lynn Road: The Great Fenland Highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Fens, The (England) -- Description and travel
THE entrance to Cambridge town through Trumpington is singularly noble
and dignified. This is an age when almost every ancient town or city
is approached through a ring of modern suburbs, but Cambridge is one
of the few and happy exceptions. You cannot enter Oxford by the old
coach road from London without passing through the modern suburb of
St. Clements, whose mean street pitifully discounts the approach to
the city over Magdalen Bridge; but at first, when nearing Cambridge,
nothing breaks the flat landscape save the distant view of King's
College Chapel, that gigantic pile of stone whose long flat skyline and
four angle-turrets so wrought upon Ruskin's feelings that he compared
it with a billiard-table turned upside down. It is not because of the
great Chapel that the entrance to Cambridge is noble: it will add
nothing to the beauty of the scene until that day--perhaps never to
come--when the building shall be completed with a stately belltower
after the design contemplated by its founder, Henry the Sixth. No; it
is rather by reason, firstly, of the broad quiet rural village street
of Trumpington, set humbly, as it were, in the gates of learning, and
secondly of the still broad and quiet, but more urban, Trumpington Road
that follows it, that Cambridge is so charmingly entered. A line of
old gabled cottages with old-fashioned gardens occupies either side of
the road; while an ancient mansion or two, together with the village
church, are hid, or perhaps glimpsed for a moment, off to the left,
where a by-road goes off, past the old toll-house, to Grantchester.
This is Trumpington. In that churchyard lies a remarkable man: none
other, indeed, than Henry Fawcett--we will not call him by his title of
"Professor," for that seems always so blatant a dignity--who died at
Cambridge in 1884, thus ending a life that had risen triumphant above,
surely, the keenest affliction Fate can inflict. Completely blinded in
youth by an accident of the most deplorable kind, he yet lived to fill
a career in life and politics apparently denied by loss of sight. The
text on his gravestone--a garbled passage from Exodus, chap. xiv. ver.
15--is singularly appropriate: "Speak unto the people, that they go
forward."
It is down this leafy by-way, past the church, that one finds
Grantchester Mill, a building generally thought to occupy the site of
that "Trumpington Mill" made famous in one of Chaucer's _Canterbury
Tales_.
For Trumpington has a certain literary fame, in association with
Chaucer's "Reeve's Tale":--
"At Trompington, not fer fro Cantebrigge,
Ther goth a brook, and over that a brigge,
Upon the whiche brook ther stont a melle."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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