The Capitals of Spanish AmericaCurtis, William Eleroy
History
The Capitals of Spanish America
Curtis, William Eleroy
Capitals (Cities) -- Latin America; Cities and towns -- Latin America; Latin America -- Description and travel
As formerly, bull-fighting is at present the most popular amusement in
Mexico, and a matador is more distinguished in the eyes of the common
people than a prima donna or a president. The Mexican Government has of
late years become humanized to the extent of prohibiting these brutal
spectacles within the city limits, and they now take place at what is
called the “Plaza de Toros,” or Bull Park, on the plains five or six
miles from the city. Here the people gather on every Sunday and
saint-day to witness the butchery of three or four bulls and twice as
many horses, under the official patronage of the Governor of the State,
who always is present with his family and official staff, and from a
decorated platform directs the entertainment, giving his orders through
a trumpeter.
Back of the Castle of Chapultepec is the battle-field of Molino del Rey
(The Mill of the King), where General Scott met stubborn resistance when
he attempted to enter Mexico, but drove the Mexicans up the hill. The
old earthworks erected by the latter still stand as they were at the
time of the battle, and are usually visited by tourists. On the plain
beyond the battle-field stands an amphitheatre enclosed within a massive
wall of adobe--the mud bricks which are used for building material in
all the rainless region of this continent. The amphitheatre is arranged
in the usual form, except that the shady side is divided up into boxes
to be occupied by the grandees, while the sunny side has plain board
benches for the barefooted Castilians whose mild eyes and pathetic
deference give no key to the cruelty of which their race has been
guilty. The centre of the amphitheatre is enclosed by a board wall,
perhaps eight feet in height, surmounted at a point two feet higher by a
heavy cable strung through stalwart iron rods. The top of this fence
appeared to be the favorite eyrie from which to survey the field, and
upon it for the entire length sat a row of urchins, with here and there
a bearded man, all poised upon the edge, with their legs hanging over
into the bull-ring, and their arms clinging to the rope.
The Governor, a tall, swarthy man, with a wide sombrero, mustache and
goatee, the very picture of the “haughty Don,” sat in a decorated box,
with the flag of his country profusely draped around him. He had two
aides-de-camp, his three children, and an orderly, who with a trumpet
sounded a blast now and then to convey his excellency’s desires. We
happened luckily to have the adjoining box, from which we could watch
him closely and hear his comments upon the performances.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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