The Channel IslandsMorris, Joseph E. (Joseph Ernest)
History
The Channel Islands
Morris, Joseph E. (Joseph Ernest)
Channel Islands
The walk across the south coast of Jersey, from Mont Orgueil to the
Corbière, taking the train for the four dull miles, where there is
nothing to see, between St. Helier and St. Aubin, will probably almost
exhaust, except for the archæologist of the Dry-as-Dust school, the
artificial attractions of the island of Jersey. Of course, there are
other antiquities to see: St. Ouen's Manor, for example, now recently
restored, and the ancient house of the Carterets; the cromlechs at
Gorey and the Coupéron; and the seven old churches that we have not
yet visited. But when we have seen the wall-paintings at St. Brelade's
and St. Clement's; have inspected Elizabeth Castle, and the curious
font at Prince's Tower; and, above all, have made every stick and
stone of Mont Orgueil our own treasured possession, it will be time
for most of us to turn our attention, less to the artificial
attractions of Jersey, than to its wonderful natural beauties. It is
lucky that these lie mostly on the north coast, which is well out of
reach of St. Helier. It would be sad indeed if this silent succession
of bays, stretching in stern sublimity from Grosnez Point to the long
useless breakwater on the south of Fliquet Bay, were infested with
tea-gardens, and boarding-houses, and villas. For this twelve miles of
coast is both wholly unspoilt, and one of the loveliest imaginable.
Brakes, no doubt, in the season, with their hordes of jolly trippers,
invade for a few hours the sacred silences of Grève de Lecq and Rozel
Bay. These, however, are limited to definite times and places; nor
will it be hard for the quiet lover of Nature to evade their unwelcome
gaieties. Every inch of this glorious stretch of coast should be
walked over, if possible; should often be revisited; and should be
lingered over lovingly. Where else have these rose-red cliffs a
counterpart, jutting out into the bluest, or most emerald, of seas,
and haunted by myriads of clanging sea-fowl, unless it be on the
borders of lost Lyonesse? Waters that rest on a granite bed are always
of amazing translucency--
Pleased to watch the waters sleep,
Round Iona green and deep--
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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