The Channel IslandsMorris, Joseph E. (Joseph Ernest)
History
The Channel Islands
Morris, Joseph E. (Joseph Ernest)
Channel Islands
and those that never rest round the igneous cliffs of Jersey are no
exception to this beautiful rule. Here and there, of course, the
explorer will come across some special point of interest, though the
coast, to be enjoyed at its best, must always be enjoyed as a whole.
At Grève de Lecq is a cave to visit which thoroughly entails some very
rough scrambling, and some rather giddy climbing up an almost vertical
cliff. Less than two miles to the east, as the crow flies--it adds to
the distance enormously to follow all the sinuosities of this deeply
indented coast--is the Creux-du-Vis, or Devil's Hole--one of those
strange, roofless caverns, connecting with the sea by a tunnel through
which the tide ebbs and flows, but set back some little distance from
the margin of the cliff, that are found again in Sark, in the Creux
Derrible and Pot. In many respects they resemble the famous
"pot-holes" that occur in the mountain limestone of the Craven
district in North-West Yorkshire, though their origin, it is clear, is
wholly different. Creux, of course, is connected with the French
_creuser_, to dig; and "derrible," which has nothing whatever to do
with "terrible," is an old Norman word, unknown to modern French, that
really expresses the same idea: "Cavité d'un rocher formée par un
éboulement de terre, attenant à un précipice." "Creux" is used again
of artificial cromlechs. East of the Creux-du-Vis is the Mouriers
Waterfall, where a little stream leaps down the rocks into the sea.
The path along the cliff is rather giddy, and those who take it must
remember that a slip may be followed by fatal consequences, like the
accident that happened to Mrs. Guille, in 1871, at the Gouffre, in
Guernsey. The steep grass slopes in spring are plentifully sprinkled
with the dainty yellow blossoms of the little wild narcissus. Beyond
Sorel Point comes suddenly the deep hollow of La Houle, guarded by
granite cliffs of sheer sublimity; and beyond this, in long
succession, round innumerable intervening points, come Mourier, and
Bonne Nuit, and Giffard, and Bouley, and Rozel, and Fliquet Bays. A
week may well be spent, and more than a week, in leisurely exploration
of this gloriously broken coast. Or the visitor who has less energy,
or is weary of much scrambling, may sit here day after day in the
sunshine, on promontory or cliff, watching the "blind wave" at its
never-ending business of "feeling round its ocean hall." There are
less pleasant ways than this of spending a summer holiday for those
whose brains are fagged by weeks of dull work in London. And always
across the water, far-seen on the dim horizon, are the faint grey
lines of the Cotentin, and the cliffs of fairy-like Sark.
[Illustration: THE PEA STACKS (TAS DE POIS), JERBOURG, GUERNSEY.
Isolated and wall-sided masses of rock of this type are typical of
the Channel Islands.]
CHAPTER II
GUERNSEY
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