The Chautauquan, Vol. 04, January 1884: A Monthly Magazine Devoted to the Promotion of True Culture.; Organ of the Chautauqua Literary and Scientific Circle.Chautauqua Literary and Scientific Circle
History
The Chautauquan, Vol. 04, January 1884: A Monthly Magazine Devoted to the Promotion of True Culture.; Organ of the Chautauqua Literary and Scientific Circle.
Chautauqua Literary and Scientific Circle
Chautauqua Institution -- Periodicals; Chautauqua Literary and Scientific Circle -- Periodicals
But it is not merely the surface water which moves. You have learnt a
little about icebergs; and one fact about them which you must remember
is that, large as they may seem, there is about seven times more of
their mass below water than above it. Now, it sometimes happens that an
iceberg is seen sailing on, even right in the face of a strong wind.
This shows that it is moving, not with the wind, but with a strong
under-current in the sea. In short, the sea is found to be traversed by
many currents, some flowing from cold to warm regions, and others from
warm to cold.
Here, then, are four facts about the sea:—1st, it has a restless
surface, disturbed by ripples and waves; 2ndly, it is constantly
heaving with the ebb and flow of the tides; 3dly, its surface waters
drift with the wind; and 4thly, it possesses currents like the
atmosphere.
For the present it will be enough if we learn something regarding the
first of these facts—the waves of the sea.
Here again you may profitably illustrate by familiar objects what goes
on upon so vast a scale in nature. Take a basin, or a long trough of
water, and blow upon the water at one edge. You throw its surface into
ripples, which, as you will observe, start from the place where your
breath first hits the water, and roll onward until they break in little
wavelets upon the opposite margin of the basin.
What you do in a small way is the same action by which the waves of the
sea are formed. All these disturbances of the smoothness of the sea
are due to disturbances of the air. Wind acts upon the water of the
sea as your breath does on that of the basin. Striking the surface it
throws the water into ripples or undulations, and in continuing to blow
along the surface it gives these additional force, until driven on by a
furious gale they grow into huge billows.
When waves roll in on the land, they break one after another upon the
shore, as your ripples break upon the side of the basin. And they
continue to roll in after the wind has fallen, in the same way that the
ripples in the basin will go on curling for a little after you have
ceased to blow. The surface of the sea, like that of water generally,
is very sensitive. If it is thrown into undulations, it does not become
motionless the moment the cause of disturbance has passed away, but
continues moving in the same way, but in a gradually lessening degree,
until it comes to rest.
The restlessness of the surface of the sea becomes in this way a
reflection of the restlessness of the air. It is the constant moving to
and fro of currents of air, either gentle or violent, which roughens
the sea with waves. When the air for a time is calm above, the sea
sleeps peacefully below; when the sky darkens, and a tempest bursts
forth, the sea is lashed into waves, which roll in and break with
enormous force upon the land.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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