The Chautauquan, Vol. 04, January 1884: A Monthly Magazine Devoted to the Promotion of True Culture.; Organ of the Chautauqua Literary and Scientific Circle.Chautauqua Literary and Scientific Circle
History
The Chautauquan, Vol. 04, January 1884: A Monthly Magazine Devoted to the Promotion of True Culture.; Organ of the Chautauqua Literary and Scientific Circle.
Chautauqua Literary and Scientific Circle
Chautauqua Institution -- Periodicals; Chautauqua Literary and Scientific Circle -- Periodicals
You have heard, perhaps you have even seen, something of the
destruction which is worked by the waves of the sea. Every year piers
and sea walls are broken down, pieces of the coast are washed away, and
the shores are strewn with the wreck of ships. So that, beside all the
waste which the surface of the land undergoes from rain, and frost,
and streams, there is another form of destruction going on along the
coast-line.
On some parts of the coast-line of the east of England, where the rock
is easily worn away, the sea advances on the land at a rate of two or
three feet every year. Towns and villages which existed a few centuries
ago, have one by one disappeared, and their sites are now a long way
out under the restless waters of the North Sea. On the west coast of
Ireland and Scotland, however, where the rocks are usually hard and
resisting, the rate of waste has been comparatively small.
It would be worth your while the first time you happen to be at the
coast, to ascertain what means the sea takes to waste the land. This
you can easily do by watching what happens on a rocky beach. Get to
some sandy or gravelly part of the beach, over which the waves are
breaking, and keep your eye on the water when it runs back after a wave
has burst. You see all the grains of gravel and sand hurrying down the
slope with the water; and if the gravel happens to be coarse, it makes
a harsh grating noise as its stones rub against each other—a noise
sometimes loud enough to be heard miles away. As the next wave comes
curling along, you will mark that the sand and gravel, after slackening
their downward pace, are caught up by the bottom of the advancing wave
and dragged up the beach again, only to be hurried down once more as
the water retires to allow another wave to do the same work.
By this continual up and down movement of the water, the sand and
stones on the beach are kept grinding against each other, as in a mill.
Consequently they are worn away. The stones become smaller, until they
pass into mere sand, and the sand, growing finer, is swept away out to
sea and laid down at the bottom.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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