The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
Another kind is _Chitin_, which constituted the animal food of St. John
the Baptist, when he fed upon locusts and wild honey. It is the basis
of the bodily structure of insects; of the spiral tubes which permeate
them throughout, and are so wonderfully displayed when we examine
insect anatomy by aid of the microscope; also of their intestinal
canal, their external skeleton, scales, hairs, &c. It similarly forms
the true skeleton and bodily framework of crabs, lobsters, shrimps, and
other crustacea, bearing the same relation to their shells, muscles,
&c., that ordinary gelatin does to the bones and softer tissues of the
vertebrata; it is ‘the bone of their bones, and the flesh of their
flesh.’ It is obtainable by boiling these creatures down, but is more
difficult of solution than the ordinary gelatin of beef, mutton,
fish, and poultry. To this difficulty of solution in the stomach, the
nightmare that follows lobster suppers is probably attributable.
I once had an experience of the edibility of the shells of a
crustacean. When travelling, I always continue the pursuit of knowledge
in restaurants by ordering anything that appears on the bill of fare
that I have never heard of before, or cannot translate or pronounce.
At a Neapolitan restaurant I found ‘_Gambero di Mare_’ on the _Carta_,
which I translated ‘Leggy things of the sea,’ or sea-creepers, and
ordered them accordingly. They proved to be shrimps fried in their
shells, and were very delicious—like whitebait, but richer. The chitin
of the shells was thus cooked to crispness, and no evil consequences
followed. If reduced to locusts, I should, if possible, cook them in
the same manner, and, as they have similar chemical composition, they
would doubtless be equally good.
Should any epicurean reader desire to try this dish (the shrimps, I
mean), he should fry them as they come from the sea, not as they are
sold by the fishmonger, these being already boiled in salt water;
usually in sea water by the shrimpers who catch them, the chitin being
indurated thereby.
The introduction of fried and tinned locusts as an epicurean delicacy
would be a boon to suffering humanity, by supplying industrial
compensation to the inhabitants of districts subject to periodical
plagues of locust invasion. The idea of eating them appears repulsive
_at first_, so would that of eating such creepy-crawly things
as shrimps, if no adventurous hero had made the first exemplary
experiment. Chitin is chitin, whether elaborated on the land or
secreted in the sea. The vegetarian locust and the cicala are free from
the pungent essential oils of the really unpleasant cockchafer.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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