The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
That curious epicurean food, the edible birds’-nests, which has been
a subject of much controversy concerning its composition, is commonly
described as a delicate kind of gelatin. This does not appear to be
quite correct. It is certainly gelatinous in its mechanical properties,
but it more nearly resembles the material of the slime and organic
tissue of snails, a substance to which the name of _mucin_ has been
given. Thus the birds’-nest soup of the East and the snail soup of
the West are nearly allied, and that made from callipash and callipee
supplies an intermediate reptilian link.
The birds’-nests, when cleaned for cooking, are entirely composed of
the dried saliva of swallows, or rather swiftlets (_collocalia_), and
this saliva probably contains some amount of digestive ferment or
pepsin, which may render it more digestible than the vulgar product
from shin of beef, and consequently more acceptable to feeble epicures.
Those who have sufficient vital energy to supply their own saliva will
probably prefer the vulgar concoction to the costly secretion. The bird
saliva sells for its own weight in silver, when freed from adhering
impurities.[6]
Those who are disposed to bow too implicitly to mere authority
in scientific matters will do well to study the history and the
treatment which gelatin has received from some of the highest of these
authorities. Our grandmothers believed it to be highly nutritious,
prepared it in the form of jellies for invalids, and estimated the
nutritive value of their soups by the consistency of the jelly which
they formed on cooling, which thickness is due to the gelatin they
contain. Isinglass, which is simply the swim-bladder of the sturgeon
and similar fishes cut into shreds, was especially esteemed, and sold
at high prices. This is the purest natural form of gelatin.
Everybody believed that the callipash and callipee of the alderman’s
turtle soup contributed largely to his proverbial girth, and those
who could not afford to pay for the gelatin of the reptile, made mock
turtle from the gelatinous tissues of calves’-heads and pigs’-feet.
About fifty or sixty years ago, the French Academy of Sciences
appointed a bone-soup commission, consisting of some of the most
eminent _savants_ of the period. They worked for above ten years upon
the problem submitted to them, that of determining whether or not the
soup made by boiling bones until only their mineral matter remained
solid, is, or is not, a nutritious food for the inmates of hospitals,
&c. In the voluminous report which they ultimately submitted to the
Academy, they decided in the negative.
Baron Liebig became the popular exponent of their conclusions, and
vigorously denounced gelatin, as not merely a worthless article of
food, but as loading the system with material that demands wasteful
effort for its removal.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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