The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
History
The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
Turkey -- Social life and customs
This arrangement sufficiently attested the superiority of the situation;
and, accordingly, avoiding the crowd of the Champs des Morts, and the
thronged descent into the valley, we drove across the hills beyond the
Military College; and then, skirting the height above Dolma Batchè,
suddenly descended almost under the walls of the Palace. But the chosen
spot was surrounded by guards, and the crowd were clustered densely in
their rear; so densely, indeed, that the _arabadjhe_ declared our
further progress to be altogether impracticable.
From this dilemma we were fortunately extricated by an officer of Achmet
Pasha’s household; who, perceiving the difficulty, hastened to remove
it, which he effected in no very gentle manner by striking the
individuals who impeded our passage right and left with the flat of his
sword, until he established us immediately behind the line of military.
The performances had not yet commenced, and I had consequently time to
contemplate the animated scene before me. On my right was the kiosk,
whose wide casements were crowded with Pashas; on my left the Garden
Pavilion, which had the honour of screening from the gaze of the vulgar
the Brother of the Sun and his train of attendant beauties; behind me
rose the hill whose summit was covered with the tents of the Imperial
suite, and whose rise was occupied by a crowd of Turkish females; and
before me stretched the Bosphorus. A small opening, leading down from
the arena towards the shore, was occupied by a detachment of military:
and beneath the windows of the kiosk, mats had been spread for about a
hundred women, who were comfortably established under the long shadows
of the building.
At the other extremity of the circle, thirteen Jews, seated
crescent-wise, were playing upon tambourines; while as many more,
squatted in their rear, were each beating upon a sort of coarse drum,
whose only attribute was noise; and the time to be observed by the
musicians was regulated by an individual, with a venerable white beard
and a staff of office. This head-splitting orchestra continued to
accompany the whole performance, with very slight intervals of rest; and
was quite in keeping with the remainder of the exhibition.
Not the slightest effort had been made to level the piece of land thus
converted into a temporary theatre, and which was stony and uneven to a
degree that must have disconcerted any individuals less philosophical
than those who were to exhibit their histrionic and terpsichorean
talents before the Ottoman Emperor and his August Court. In fact, the
whole of the scenic preparations were conducted in so primitive a manner
that you saw at once no deceit was intended, and that, if you suffered
yourself to be led away by the incidents of the drama, you would not be
deluded thereto by any effort of the actors.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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