The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
History
The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
Turkey -- Social life and customs
Merchants of Galata—Palaces of Pera—Picturesque style of
Building—The Perotes—Social Subjects—Greeks, European and
Schismatic—Ambassadorial Residences—Entrée of the
Embassies—The Carnival—Soirées Dansantes—The Austrian
Minister—Madame la Baronne—The Russian Minister—Madame de
Boutenieff—The Masked Ball—Russian Supremacy—The Prussian
Plenipotentiary—The Sardinian Chargé d’Affaires—Diplomacy
Unhoused—Society of Pera.
Neither Frank nor Christian is allowed to inhabit the “City of the
Faithful;” and the faubourg of Pera, situated on the opposite side of
the port, is consequently the head-quarters of the _élite_ of European
society. Galata, which skirts the shore of the Bosphorus at the base of
the hill on which Pera is built, numbers among its inhabitants many very
respectable merchants, whose avocations demand their continual presence;
but Pera is the dwelling-place of the beau-monde—the seat of
fashion—the St. James’s of the capital. Here every thing social is _en
magnifique_: the residences attached to the different Legations glory in
the imposing designations of “palaces”—the gloomy _magazins_ of the
Parisian _modistes_ are as dear and as dirty as can be desired—all the
_employés_ of diplomacy throng the narrow, steep, and ill-paved
streets, while the fair Greeks look down upon them from their
bay-windows, projecting far beyond the façade of the building; and the
bright-eyed Armenians peer from their lattices “all-seeing, but unseen.”
The quaintly-coloured houses, looking like tenements of painted
pasteboard, appear as though a touch would make them meet, and are
picturesque beyond description, as they advance and recede, setting all
external order, regularity, and proportion, at defiance.
In my rapid definition of European society, I must not omit to mention
that the Perotes, or natives of Pera, consider themselves as much Franks
as though they had been born and nurtured on the banks of the Thames or
the Seine; and your expression of amusement at this very original notion
would inevitably give great offence. Conceding this point, therefore, as
one which will not admit of argument, I shall simply divide society into
two parts—the diplomatic and the scandalous—premising, however, that
it requires a delicate touch to separate them, they are so intimately
interwoven. Those who have the _entrée_ of the several embassies
criticise each other; while those who have not, exercise a still more
powerful prerogative; and certain it is that, between the two, the
population of Pera is a great circulating medium which would render an
official “hue and cry” a work of supererogation. “Not a feather falls
to the ground,” but in half an hour every individual in the place knows
by whom it was plucked, and the tale is told with a raciness and a zest
that would make the fortune of a Sunday paper.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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