The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
History
The City of the Sultan; and Domestic Manners of the Turks, in 1836, Vol. 1 (of 2)
Pardoe, Miss (Julia)
Turkey -- Social life and customs
A nice distinction exists among the Greeks, on which they vehemently
insist; the Greek Catholics consider themselves as Europeans, while the
schismatic Greeks do not assume this privilege, of which the former are
extremely jealous.
After the residence of a few weeks, you can readily determine the origin
of every female whom you encounter in the streets of Pera. The fair
Perotes, indeed, wear the bonnet, the cloak, and the shawl, which form
the walking garb of the genuine European gentlewoman; but, nevertheless,
it is impossible not to distinguish them at a glance; an insurmountable
taste for bright colours, an indescribable peculiarity in the adjustment
of their toilette, at once mark the Perote; while the dark-eyed Greek is
known by her wide-spreading turban of gauze or velvet, over which is
flung a lace veil, which, falling low upon the back and shoulders,
leaves the face almost entirely uncovered.
Since the great fire of Pera, the Ambassadors of England and France have
resided at Therapia, a pretty village on the banks of the Bosphorus,
near the mouth of the Black Sea; but the Internuncio of Russia, the
Ministers of Austria and Prussia, and the Chargés d’Affaires of Sardinia
and Holland, still inhabit the town daring the winter months. The
Austrian palace, however, is the only one that now remains, the other
diplomatic establishments being compressed into dwelling-houses; thus
the Russian minister inhabits a mansion in the High Street, and the
Dutch Chargé d’Affaires resides next door to us.
The _entrée_ of the embassies is peculiarly easy to the resident
Europeans, as their number is so limited that _les grands convenances_
are almost necessarily laid aside, and their Excellencies
super-eminently tolerant with regard to the rank of their guests. Thus
it is somewhat startling to a traveller, accustomed to the exclusive
circles of Paris and London, to find, not only merchants and their wives
at the diplomatic _soirées_, but even the head clerks and their fair
partners. It is true that the mode of reception has gradations of
graciousness,
“Small by degrees, and beautifully less;”
but this is mere matter of individual feeling and power of
endurance—the fact remains unaltered.
The Carnival had this year resumed its gaiety; men’s minds had begun to
cast off the panic occasioned by the terrific conflagration which almost
made the town a waste, and nearly ruined many of the inhabitants whose
property consisted chiefly in houses.
At the Austrian palace there were balls every Sunday throughout the
Carnival, where mustachioes and diplomatic buttons were rife. The
never-ending cotillon, the rapid mazurka, the quadrille, and waltz, were
equally popular; and I have danced the first with a Greek, the second
with a Russian, the third with a Frenchman, and the fourth with a
German, during the course of the evening.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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