During the seventh and sixth centuries the rich and artistic Ionian cities had a great influence on the customs of Greece, and from them the ladies of Athens adopted the linen chiton, which was wider and was sewed on the sides. The additional width was sometimes used to form sleeves by catching the two pieces together at the top in three or four places, with sewing, buttons, or small pins. Long sleeves sewn in were occasionally worn, but were exceptional rather than customary, so that artists often represent barbarians with sleeves to distinguish them from Greeks. On a kotyle in Case C in the Fifth Room is a woman wearing a spotted chiton with long, close-fitting sleeves. At this period men as well as women at times wore the apoptygma and kolpos, but the man’s chiton was generally short (fig. 59). On two kylikes on the bottom of Case L in the Fourth Room (Nos. 12.231 and GR1120) women are represented in the linen chiton (fig. 62). After the Persian Wars, as the result of the strong reaction against Eastern fashions, men and women both adopted the woolen Doric chiton again, and for men it remained the universal dress, being now short and without apoptygma and kolpos. Still, the adoption of the Doric chiton did not imply a violent change, for working people had worn it continuously and it was the usual dress for young girls. Old men, priests, charioteers, and officials on public occasions continued to wear the long Ionic chiton, and both were in use by ladies at the same period. It should be added that at this time the two types were often worn together, the Ionic forming an undergarment with short sleeves, and the Doric, a sleeveless gown. This costume is frequently seen on grave-reliefs, but our only example is an engraving of a Maenad on a bronze mirror in Case C in the Sixth Room. [Illustration: FIG. 60. EARLY CHITONS] [Illustration: FIG. 61. WOMAN’S DORIC CHITON OF THE V CENTURY] [Illustration: FIG. 62. WOMAN IN IONIC CHITON] The woman’s Doric chiton of this time may be seen in the statue of Eirene, No. 15 in the Sculpture Gallery (fig. 61), and it is worn without a girdle by the young girl on a gravestone (No. 21, fig. 63). Here the open side shows plainly. A drawing of Zeus on a krater on the bottom of Case O in the Fourth Room, and a young hunter on a krater on the left side of the first shelf show the man’s chiton (fig. 67). The Ionic chiton is illustrated by the statue of a goddess, No. 19 in the Sculpture Gallery. Metal buttons to represent the sleeve fastenings were inserted in the marble. [Illustration: FIG. 63. DORIC CHITON WITHOUT GIRDLE] [Illustration: FIG. 64. LADY IN HIMATION AND HAT] [Illustration: FIG. 65. LADY IN HIMATION] [Illustration: FIG. 66. MAN IN RIDING-CLOAK AND HAT]