St. Emmeram’s Abbey--of which the church is the main part now left,
the site of the abbey being occupied by the palace of the Prince of
Thurn and Taxis--lies on the south side of the town, with one of the
four remaining town gates--the Emmeramer Tor--near by. The church is
still worth a visit from those interested in ecclesiastical art and
architecture, in older tombs and shrines of saints; here, too, they
will find the tombs of King Childeric of France and other mediæval
notables. The bridge gate we have already glanced at; the other two
left standing when the town wall was demolished about half a century
ago are the Prebrunntor on the west and the tall tile-roofed Ostentor.
The Schottenkirche (or St. Jacob’s Church) has a fine pillared doorway
chiefly remarkable for the number of quaintly carven figures of men and
beasts about it. The many square towers that rise above the surrounding
roofs on many of the streets are survivals, peculiar I believe to
Ratisbon, of the old days when every nobleman had to be prepared
to defend his house. And the story of Ratisbon suggests that such
preparation was necessary, for in the course of nine hundred years the
city had to withstand a siege fourteen times.
The highest of these towers, the Goldene Turm in the Wahlenstrasse,
rises one hundred and seventy feet above the pavement; another is on
the Haidplatz, and yet another not far from the bridge, attached
to a house on which is a gigantic mural painting of David attacking
Goliath. It may well be that this subject arises from an episode in the
history of Ratisbon, also made the subject of a house-wall painting.
This episode was a fight between one of the citizens of the place and
a giant. The story runs that in the year 930 a terrible combat was
fought on the Haidplatz between a gigantic Hun, Craco by name, and Hans
Dollinger, a valiant burgher of Ratisbon. The Hun had already flung
forty knights out of the saddle when, in the presence of the Emperor,
he was confronted by the dauntless Dollinger. The Emperor marked the
champion twice over the mouth with the sign of the cross it is said,
and to the virtue of the holy sign was attributed the final overthrow
of the mighty pagan. Craco’s sword, nearly eight feet in length, was
removed some centuries later to Vienna, and Ratisbon lost a remarkable
relic.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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